Rear brake switch

With the help of David at First Kick Scooters, I have come to the realization that my stock rear brake switch was actually one from the Rally 180. It would be in grey with a grey gasket. You can see my stock one pictured here on the right. Note the guts of the stock one. It is in the "open" position, which means when you push the plunger that the connection is formed. SIP pictures their black Rally 180-200 here and you can see the internals are the same as my stock one. So now my big concern is, since I don't use a "Closed" GS/SS180 brake switch, should I have also used a Rally 180 wire loom (if they are different). Anybody know this answer?

Spark plug changed and finished

As some of you may remember I had a NGK style upgrade on my spark plug with the nice tight ball bearing connection, but was warned by a reader that it stood too tall and would dent the underside of the cowl when my wife rode over a big bump. You can see a photo and read the comments about my modified spark plug clip here. I didn't take any chances and changed it back to stock, which is a good thing.It takes very little work to remove the spark plug clip. No need to cut the wire and chance the wire being too short -- mine was in danger of being too short. I used pliers and gently walked it around the clip's end and listened for a small "cracking" sound. It did and I was able to pull the wire out with no effort at all.As you can see it was a clean break. I am no expert, but logic tells me the fact that the modified NGK spark plug clip has a sharp nail like pin going into the cables inside the wire produce both a superior connection and a better water/weather proof protection than the stock one did.In an effort to increase the connection "area" between the wire and the spark plug clip, I recommend trimming the rubber on the wire back and folding the wire back over itself so it literally rests against the clip when you tighten it down. That way you have two connections: the spike in the clip, which goes through the wire, and the folded over wire you created. Click to enlarge the photo to see what I did. Thanks to David at First Kick, who taught me this trick.

Grinding hardware stamps

As you know the stock kickstand hardware was not stainless steel, nor did it have a stamp on it. I want stainless steel, but I do not want the stamp; therefore I grind'd all four bolt heads for the kickstand hardware. Also note that there are two different washer sizes here. I was in a hurry before I moved West so I just got the bike together. Now that I am settled I can correct those minor errors.

I used my Dremel and just very lightly ground down the stamps and made it all look even. I was able to handhold the bolts.


It is my hope that over the time the bolt head will weather a little bit and look a little more stock with less glossy shine on where I polished it with the Dremel.

HeadLight Assembly & Headset Internals

As my readers may remember there were two items that needed my attention with the headset, but I went ahead and put it together before we moved to make sure nothing got lost in transit.Pictured above the headlight bezel screw that broke when installing the headlight bezel.  This headlight assembly fits a VSD (the Rally 180/200).  Remember that the later year VSCs in the USA were required to have a round headset.  The screw pictured here is part S15544 at ScooterWorks, where I bought the assembly.
To remove the bezel I heated it so the metal would expand with a heat gun.  It took about one to two minutes.
When ever banging on the Vespa I look for the softest thing I can find, such as a wooden paint stirrer.  The bezel was too snug, due to paint.  So I gently tapped the rubber mallet against the wood paint stirrer and it worked great.
Above note: the broken bezel screw and a chip from the paint.  This is okay, because the headset is aluminum and will not rust.  Plus the bezel will hide it and no one will ever see it.
Another close up of the broken bezel screw.
I need to replace both that screw and the bezel hardware for 1970s headlight assemblies, part number #15221 at ScooterWorks.
The headset assembly was supposed to arrive with a light bulb.  It did not.  I need one.  I used a Sharpie to label what wires plugged into what terminals.
The final items I need for the headset is the terminal for the speedo light bulb as well as the bulb itself.

I have more done on the Vespa and will post more soon.  I also have been working more on my Bajaj Chetak.  You'll never guess what I found during the oil change.  Click here to find out.

Fuel what?

Originally, I though I did have the sediment bowl, but alas I was wrong. I had this:
I don't know what the heck it is, but I know it's not Vespa.
Do you know what the heck this thing is? And why it would be used on a Vespa? Please leave a comment. I am curious.

Spark plug & oil choice

I asked Tom G. what brand spark plug and oil he recommends for the SS180 and here's his response:

Plug: NGK

Use the cheapest dino-based 2stroke oil you can find
for your break-in (synthetic is too slippery and will
prevent ring bed-in).

After breakin, use any good synth or semi-synth oil.
I use Yamalube semi-synth, for no particular reason.

Belray is also supposed to be good, and I use to use
that a lot. Also Motul.

Tom

Reassembly Update #6 with video

My life is slowing down for the moment. My family is entering a major transition period and therefore, I have not had much time to work on reassembling the SS180, but lucky for me my buddy Ted has done a little here and a little there. For the next month I should have a lot more time to dedicate to putting this bike back together. Now I just need cash. Luckily, Lisa's birthday is coming up and she is asking for grommets. These parts are needed immediately.

Here's the state of the bike:

Hardware will be purchased shortly. Using stainless for the painted areas and galvanized every where else or where the nut will be under stress.

A big thank you to Ted W.

Frame Grommet List

Below is a list of the badly needed rubber grommets I need to proceed with the restoration. I am fine tuning the list, but in its current state it may save you time from needing to create one. I looked for a list that someone else already created, but couldn't find it. Why recreate the wheel, right? I hope this proves helpful for you:

1. Centerstand spring (Part: 47872).
2. Seat Buffers (Part: 56730)
3. Fuel rod grommet (Part: 47460).
4. Fuel line (Part: 93510).
5. Fuel line grommet (Part: 84262)
6. Fuel line to airbox rubber.
7. Grommet for electrical harness and spark plug wire. Using a Vespa PX HT coil.
8. Grommet to frame wiring?
9. Cable grommet for HT coil wires(Part: 48171).
10. Cable Hose (Part: 90541)
11. Throttle and choke cable grommet. Fits 60s to 80s Vespas.
12. Grommet for clutch gears and rear brake.
13. Qty: 2 -- Cowl hook grommet (Qty: 2)
14. QTY: 2 -- Cowl hook sheath (Part: 24041)
15. QTY: 2 -- Cowl peg buffer (Part: 87488)
16. Buffer for cowl latch (Qty: 2)
17. Fuel line grommet for more most 60s and 70s Vespas.
18. Gas Tank Cap Gasket for large frames (Part: 56678).
19. Seal for the fuel assembly – goes beneath the sediment bowl (Part: 26042)
20. Fuel assembly gasket for inside gas tank ????
21. 4 hole gasket for fuel cock assembly. Fits GS and Super Sport. (Part: 13836)
22. Air Bellow (Part: 97366)
23. Gasket for air bellow connection (Part: 97493)
24. Brake pedal rubber
25. Brake switch gasket (Part: 82783)
26. Brake Bellow for most 60s and 70s Vespas (Part: 57321)
27. PX HT Coil cover
28. UPPER -- Coil side insulating cap for VSB1-VSC1 (Part: 57042).
29. LOWER -- Coil side insulating cap for VSB1-VSC1 (Part: 56169).
30. Cable coil grommet.
31. Speedo nut top grommet.
32. Speedo sheath seal.
33. Clamshell Speedo glass (Part: 84803).
34. Clamshell Speedo gasket inside glass (Part: 84804)
35. Clamshell Speedo gasket (Part: 49458?)
36. Rubber grommet fits around steering lock.
37. Handle bar segment grommet. U-shape rubber grommet.
38. Front hub oil seal (Part: 94119).

Fuel tap

As always when I am working through a problem I walk you through my problem and to my solution. This time is no different. Ted W. and I have been on the phone discussing why the only glass bowl I have with the bike does not fit the fuel assembly. I will not be out to Ted's shop until Thursday (expect a lot of pictures and maybe a video to follow that visit) and I can't wait. After searching the web for 30 plus minutes for a photo, I emailed Hiro and he sent back the following photos for me to reference. Isn't technology great? Hiro lives in Japan and sent me these photos in a matter of hours. As always this blog is indebted to people like Hiro (Palmog), who contribute their knowledge and resources to this blog.

Here are photos for your reference:

Here is a closer look at the sediment bowl:
Another angle:

The glass bowl was replaced with a metal one. It is rumored that metal one were used on later GS and SS models, but I can NOT confirm this. I own a 1967 (later) SS and have a glass sediment bowl.
Once disassembled, it will look like this:
Measurement:

I am happy now that when you Google "Vespa Fuel Assembly" you will be able to see some photos should you ever search for it as I did.

The big reason why I made and maintain this blog is because I wanted and needed information, but no one put it up. So that is what I am doing.

Ordering Parts

We're now a single-income family, which has slowed down the financial dedication to the scooter restoration. My wife's birthday is in March and below is her "wish list" -- to be ordered from American Scooter Center in Texas.

Wish List:

$7 – Part#80349 – Piaggio emblem with adhesive strip
$33 – Legshield trim (chrome kit)
$39 – Rally floor rail kit
$29 – Glovebox rubber in Gray
$9.50 – Part#90525 – Speedo cable
$7 – Part#85072 – Center mat Black
$17 – Part#135231 – Cowl packing strip (rubber trim) in Gray

In the meantime, we'll get the bike on its own two feet with cables run as well.