Happy Birthday to this blog!
One year ago on this day, I drafted the first post and published it on January 1st, 2007.
Since then, I have made 79 posts and this one is the 80th.
There have been 6,211 visitors (as of when I write this), from every single continent, this year -- that is an average of 518 visitors per month and 17 visitors per day roughly.
This year has been a learning experience for me and I hope that those who visit and read are also learning, especially from my mistakes.
This blog's New Year's Resolution is . . . complete the restoration of the SS180 and document the steps of reassembly.
It's funny, I looked hard and for a long time for a blog like mine that I could print out (and write notes on) in its entirety and read before beginning my restoration so that I had a detailed guide each and every step of the way. I have not found that blog yet, but I promise you I am creating it for you. And I hope that hours spent in your Haynes books, diagram print outs, Vespa service manuals, searching on BBS and other Vespa sites won't be as necessary for you because everything you need is here. I have used all these resources and encourage you to as well. They are helpful!
I realize that this site is somewhat specific to the VSC, but even if you're restoring a fender light or a P-Series I believe this site will still be useful to you if you are not an expert restorer.
Thank you for reading and contributing folks. I am glad you visit and read. This blog is for you.
An even BIGGER thank you to those specific individuals who dropped me notes offline and encouraged me and told me how much you appreciate this blog -- it kept me going and motivated.
Thank you all. Happy New Years and may your resolution be to start restoring that rust bucket in your garage or for you to start hunting old barns to find your gem.
All I ask is as you do restore it and reference this site along the way that you too comment (post) solutions to problems so that those who follow us can learn as well.
Let's get more vintage on the road and love to all 2-wheeled scoots!
Monday, 31 December 2007
Sunday, 30 December 2007
Unconvential Marketing Wisdom
Slate has an interesting article up about how Starbucks can actually improve the business of local Mom & Pop coffee houses. If you think about the role of Starbucks in coffee-culture at all, you probably think that the opening of a Starbucks means the closing of a local, independently owned java-joint. And this does certainly happen, but...But closures like this have been the exception, not the
Paint & Rust Revisited
This is a follow-up to my last paint blog entry . . .
I emailed my mentors (Christopher M. & Tom G.) the following question:
Guys,
Do you think "undercover" (the rubber sealant sprayed beneath cars) would work well to seal the rust in the cavity beneath the gas tank / floor board -- basically the tubing that lies beneath the floor mat?
Or maybe a zinc product, which attacks and seals the rust?
I'd rather not pay the price of a can of Zero Rust in shipping alone ($8 for a can and $8 for shipping) and I am looking at the alternatives the auto stores have. Much of the area did receive over spray during paint and that went over the rust. PPG cleaner and conditioner reached the rust prior to paint as well.
This is an extra preventative measure I'd like to take. The bike will be stored in doors.
Jeremy
Here are the two separate answers I received (both saying the same thing!)
I emailed my mentors (Christopher M. & Tom G.) the following question:
Guys,
Do you think "undercover" (the rubber sealant sprayed beneath cars) would work well to seal the rust in the cavity beneath the gas tank / floor board -- basically the tubing that lies beneath the floor mat?
Or maybe a zinc product, which attacks and seals the rust?
I'd rather not pay the price of a can of Zero Rust in shipping alone ($8 for a can and $8 for shipping) and I am looking at the alternatives the auto stores have. Much of the area did receive over spray during paint and that went over the rust. PPG cleaner and conditioner reached the rust prior to paint as well.
This is an extra preventative measure I'd like to take. The bike will be stored in doors.
Jeremy
Here are the two separate answers I received (both saying the same thing!)
I think you should leave the tunnel alone. Do not
"seal" the rust in. Moisture ALWAYS penetrates
sealants. If you have paint on one side of metal, and
sealant on the other, the moisture has nowhere to go
to get out, and will accelerate corrosion from the
inside out. Leave the tunnel side exposed to air, so
any moisture that gets in there can evaporate.
-- Tom
The undercoating product would likely get onto the painted exterior
surfaces, creating disaster. It's horrible gooey stuff. Like you say, some
protective coating already hit that semi-rusty steel, so it's probably OK.
Plus, the fact that you'll store it indoors is good news. I wouldn't worry
about it. Maybe if you like you could get a can of fogging oil at a
snowmobile dealer or dirt bike shop. It's a fine oil that comes in a spray
can and you use it to spray in the intake manifold when a 2 stroke engine is
being prepared for long-term storage -- it coats the cylinder/piston with a
fine oil to prevent corrosion. Good stuff. Another alternative would be the
nasty waxy stuff you can get at auto paint stores (like my beloved BAPS)
designed to be sprayed inside auto sheet metal panels to prevent rust --
exactly the situation you have. But again, this will be an indoor bike, so
even if you do nothing you should have nothing to worry about.
-- Christopher
Lesson learned:
Always double check with the painter and make sure to have the problem correctly resolved upfront or at least make sure over-spray coats the hidden areas. For this bike, we're leaving it as-is per the recommendations I received. Your situation may be different; therefore read Christopher's response closely for alternative solutions.
It's Dani Party! Próximo sábado...
No próximo sábado estão todos convidados para uma festa muito especial, a Dani faz anos e como já estamos em 2008, temos motivo para festa. Vai ser no Scandy, tudo a partir das 23h e a entrada é de borla. O sonoro vai estar a cargo do Professor X e mais alguns convidados especiais. Aparecam e tragam alegria e muita vontade de dançar e cantarolar...
Eric's SS180 is complete
Eric beat me and finished up his restoration (minus the glove box) of his 1966 Vespa VSC. You can see photos and blog entries at Eric's website
Congratulations Eric!
Congratulations Eric!
Saturday, 29 December 2007
Chetak to return?
Read April Whitney's blog post "Bajaj longs for scooter success" dated December 25, 2007.
http://www.scootmagazine.com/blog.php
The Hindustan Times published the following article on December 25, 2007:
After ten years, Bajaj to ride scooters
http://www.scootmagazine.com/blog.php
The Hindustan Times published the following article on December 25, 2007:
After ten years, Bajaj to ride scooters
Ten years after phasing out its iconic Bajaj Super and the Bajaj Cub, Bajaj Auto is now planning to revive its scooter business.
The world’s fourth largest maker of motorcycles and scooters, which built its fortune in the eighties and nineties selling lakhs of the geared scooters, is planning a series of steps, including setting up dedicated showrooms for scooter-buyers on the lines of its ‘Probiking’ showrooms.
Probiking is a series of branded, exclusive showrooms for Bajaj Motorcycles that offer an exclusive sales and service experience to prospective buyers. These would display and sell new models in the scooter segment, currently in the pipeline.
Bajaj Auto is keeping its cards close to its chest though. “We have nothing to share at this time,” Bajaj Auto managing director Rajiv Bajaj told Hindustan Times in reply to an email sent on Monday.
The company, which has since the late nineties shifted focus to the highly lucrative motorcycle business, has been found the going tough in the high volume 100 cc segment, where the Gurgaon-based Hero Honda has the upper hand. Unable to keep the volumes and profits from the 100 cc segment, where profit per bike can be as low as Rs 2,000, Bajaj launched the 125 cc XCD in an effort to woo the country's milkmen and contractors.
When it stopped making scooters, Bajaj had close to 80 per cent share of the scooters and scooterette business in the country. Most of this market has been taken over by Honda Motor and Scooters India (HMSI) with its range of geared and un-geared scooters.
Broken emblem
The good news is my fender crest and "Vespa Super Sport" emblem are fully reusable. I just need to clean them up.
The bad news is my "Vespa SS" emblem, which goes on the legshield, has broken pegs on the back that attach to locking squares that hold them in place. It's a shame because the reproduction ones suck, I've heard. In an effort to save that emblem and reuse it I emailed Christopher M. and Tom G. Welding new pegs wouldn't work I don't think. I needed a creative idea.
Christopher offered a possible and great solution. I just need to confirm that it will not hurt the paint job at all, but seeing as it the goo goes on car paint I should be fine.
Here is what Christopher M. suggested:
The bad news is my "Vespa SS" emblem, which goes on the legshield, has broken pegs on the back that attach to locking squares that hold them in place. It's a shame because the reproduction ones suck, I've heard. In an effort to save that emblem and reuse it I emailed Christopher M. and Tom G. Welding new pegs wouldn't work I don't think. I needed a creative idea.
Christopher offered a possible and great solution. I just need to confirm that it will not hurt the paint job at all, but seeing as it the goo goes on car paint I should be fine.
Here is what Christopher M. suggested:
"For the SS badge, what about just using the adhesive that's used to mount car emblems? You can get it at BAPS. Look out, though. It's nasty and stringy. A LITTLE goes a LONG way."
De 2003 a 2007 - 30.000 Km percorridos
Não é uma marca notável, não quer ser, não quero que seja!Notável só os quilómetros por belas e curvilíneas estradas, os amigos e os bons momentos que alguns destes 30.000 Km me proporcionaram. Venham mais outros tantos e mais alguns em boa companhia.Votos de um excelente 2008!
GS/SS Parts For Sale
Found this on www.scoot.net in the "parts for sale" section. I am only posting it because the photo may prove useful for you readers:
Description: Here is a lot of mostly GS 160 parts left over from my restoration a couple of years ago. The swingarm is highly polished and looks great. I had an aluminum spot weld done where the brake cam connects to the body of the arm and it is stronger than new and you would never know it was there. I have additional pics if needed. I rebuilt 3 shocks and this is one of them. The other is on my bike and has never had a problem for 2 years so hopefully this one will hold like new also. I want to sell this as a lot before I do single stuff on Ebay so ask questions and make me an offer for the whole thing. I also have a fork (Bead blasted) and other misc that I might add to the lot if I can locate it before shipping.
Location Ohio
Description: Here is a lot of mostly GS 160 parts left over from my restoration a couple of years ago. The swingarm is highly polished and looks great. I had an aluminum spot weld done where the brake cam connects to the body of the arm and it is stronger than new and you would never know it was there. I have additional pics if needed. I rebuilt 3 shocks and this is one of them. The other is on my bike and has never had a problem for 2 years so hopefully this one will hold like new also. I want to sell this as a lot before I do single stuff on Ebay so ask questions and make me an offer for the whole thing. I also have a fork (Bead blasted) and other misc that I might add to the lot if I can locate it before shipping.Location Ohio
Round headlight models
I have a round headlight on my SS and have been having problems with the scoot shops finding the lens that goes in the hole above the speedo.
Tom G. told me that an "eye" / "lens" is what goes there, but the shops didn't know what I meant and did not have the part number I provided them.
I emailed Palmog, who then email Collin (who Palmog labeled as the one with "the most knowledge about an SS in the USA" -- a hell of a nice compliment about Collin").
Here's what Collin told me:
Tom G. told me that an "eye" / "lens" is what goes there, but the shops didn't know what I meant and did not have the part number I provided them.
I emailed Palmog, who then email Collin (who Palmog labeled as the one with "the most knowledge about an SS in the USA" -- a hell of a nice compliment about Collin").
Here's what Collin told me:
Hi Jeremy,
Hiro in Japan forwarded an email you sent to him regarding US spec later SS headset parts. A round light 1967 SS180 headset is going to be identical parts-wise to a non-battery US style Rally 180 headset. The "eye" part you are looking for is a colored gem that the high beam supposedly shines through (though it hardly works anyways). Greg Clauss from Clauss studios remakes them, they are super cheap. www.claussstudios.com
Cheers,
-Collin
Ps...the gems come in Red and Orange. I've seen red on all Rally 180's and late Super Sports.
The Scootache is over
There were days I thought this moment would never arrive.
It is finally engine day!
October 23rd 2007
Back bolt in-via rear suspension pivot
Feed all wiring through ready to see if joins are right
Back together again for the first time in nearly 8 weeks!
Temporary joins in wiring.
Let there be Spark! Pleeeeeaaassseeee!!!!
Yes!
Now for fuel...
Friday, 28 December 2007
Floor rail kit -- salvagable?
If you have to replace your floor rail kit you have two choices:
1) Authentic will cost you $65 Euro ($130 USA) at http://www.mauropascoli.it/
2) Rally kit will cost you $39-49, but does not have the correct width and length to manufacturer's spec.
I was really hoping that I could reuse my floor rail kit and my legshield trim. My legshield trim is shot to hell. It looks like the bike had been laid down on one side. I will not be able to reshape the legshield trim and I am nervous that I can not reuse my stock floor rail kit.
The metal is very pliable and can be worked with somewhat. My rails do have nicks and scratches in them as you can see when you click on the photos to enlarge.
I suspect Eric planned on replacing the kit when he cut the rivets, but the bottom of the kit is in bad shape at a couple spots.
I suspect that if I cleaned them up and they were all shiny and pretty the eye would not focus on the imperfections, but then again we have a good chunk of change put into body work and paint and I wouldn't want my floor rail kit to give the hooptie effect to the finished scoot.
I really hate to replace parts because (1) new parts are not part of the scooter's soul and (2) it lowers the value of the bike when items are not original or intended for the specific model (yes, I do know the non-stock color of paint on our SS also lowered its value).
To put on a Rally floor rail kit would not bother my wife, the owner/rider of the SS180; therefore that is always an option.
The other consideration is the rubber for this floor rail kit is not sold any longer. I spoke with Claus Studios and for $128 I could have new floor rail rubber. I would need a NOS sample rubber for Claus Studios to replicate as well.
Here's the break down:
$80 for set-up (I would email all GS/SS owner to see if anyone would go in with me on this)
$8 per strip
This bike is intended to be a beautiful rider and not a museum piece; therefore spending $130 on the rubber or even the entire floor kit may not be logical for this restoration.
There are probably ten scooterists in the USA that would know the difference between the SS and Rally kits.
At this point, readers please comment below and let me know if what I have is reusable in your opinion and how you'd recommend cleaning it up.
Thank you.
From Christopher Markley:
1) Authentic will cost you $65 Euro ($130 USA) at http://www.mauropascoli.it/
2) Rally kit will cost you $39-49, but does not have the correct width and length to manufacturer's spec.
I was really hoping that I could reuse my floor rail kit and my legshield trim. My legshield trim is shot to hell. It looks like the bike had been laid down on one side. I will not be able to reshape the legshield trim and I am nervous that I can not reuse my stock floor rail kit.
The metal is very pliable and can be worked with somewhat. My rails do have nicks and scratches in them as you can see when you click on the photos to enlarge.
I suspect Eric planned on replacing the kit when he cut the rivets, but the bottom of the kit is in bad shape at a couple spots.
I suspect that if I cleaned them up and they were all shiny and pretty the eye would not focus on the imperfections, but then again we have a good chunk of change put into body work and paint and I wouldn't want my floor rail kit to give the hooptie effect to the finished scoot.
I really hate to replace parts because (1) new parts are not part of the scooter's soul and (2) it lowers the value of the bike when items are not original or intended for the specific model (yes, I do know the non-stock color of paint on our SS also lowered its value).
To put on a Rally floor rail kit would not bother my wife, the owner/rider of the SS180; therefore that is always an option.
The other consideration is the rubber for this floor rail kit is not sold any longer. I spoke with Claus Studios and for $128 I could have new floor rail rubber. I would need a NOS sample rubber for Claus Studios to replicate as well.Here's the break down:
$80 for set-up (I would email all GS/SS owner to see if anyone would go in with me on this)
$8 per strip
This bike is intended to be a beautiful rider and not a museum piece; therefore spending $130 on the rubber or even the entire floor kit may not be logical for this restoration.
There are probably ten scooterists in the USA that would know the difference between the SS and Rally kits.
At this point, readers please comment below and let me know if what I have is reusable in your opinion and how you'd recommend cleaning it up.
Thank you.
From Christopher Markley:
"You'd be surprised at the evil that you can eliminate with judicious
application of several grades of sand paper followed by steel wool. A little
ting ting ting with some little jeweler's hammers, some cleaning and
polishing and you might be ok."
You can purchase the rubber from Scooter Works (Part#56779) or from Mauro Pascoli.
Ted's shop
The SS180 has had four homes since it was rescued from a an old farm. It's lived with Eric Hughes, me, at Christopher Markley's shop, and now Ted's shop.
Ted is a KTM-man or shall I say freak! He and wife ride and own a lot of bikes. Thanx Ted for taking in the VSC and helping with the reassembly.
Parts Order No. 1
For Christmas my family gave the SS180:1) Cable set
2) MeCur rear shock spring
3) Wiring harness
4) Steering column upper and lower bearings
5) Rear shock dampener block
6) Patches for my riding coat
Total damage = $132.00 (that saved us from buying)
These items should get the reassembly started.
Replace Rim Studs
Stop! Don't bang out your old studs. They are welded in place with a tack weld. You will damage them on the way out. Try and reuse what you have first. My shop guy Ted was tapping one out for me to bring with me to the hardware store to buy stainless steel split washers and nuts and low and behold we stopped tapping out the stud right away after we made a little mess of the powder coat. Crap!MOST IMPORTANT:
There are two important characteristics in a restorer: experience and patience. For what I lack in experience I try to make up for with patience. When hammering out a stud or some metal on your bike (other than body) ALWAYS use a block of wood or copper hammer (use a hammer with metal softer than what you are hitting) and save yourself from stripping threads or causing permanent damage. Take your time! Sometimes commonsense goes by the wayside when we get excited. Patience is a virtue and pays itself back time and time again.
Front Shock Rebuild Complete
A big thank you to my motorcycle buddy Ted for rebuilding my front shock. Ted is a high school guidance counselor now, but in a previous life he was a shop guy and does stuff the ol'skool way -- similar to Christopher Markley. The shock looks beautiful!
Ted followed the instructions on the rebuild I gave him from the Jets Scooter Club web page on how to rebuild a GS/SS front shock. See my previous post on rebuilding the front shock for more information.
I have looked high and low for this little rubber piece and have not found it. I will need to make one out of a dense rubber. It does not need to keep oil from dripping -- it just acts as a dampener.I did not need to replace the rubber seal inside that is near impossible to find, but the good news is I have the one I purchased as a spare for the future.
Note: if you are looking to rebuild your GS/SS front shock . . . go check out www.scoot.net "parts for sale" as there is a guy selling the front and rear shock already rebuilt.
Embles (aka badges)
Unlike the Vespa P-Series and Stella scoots, the Bajaj does not come with chrome emblems. It comes with plastic ones. A corner I wish Bajaj had not cut. The beauty of the vintage bikes (note that P-Series and Stella are not vintage and are not considered as handsome as vintage), like cars and homes, is in the details. The Bajaj Chetak 4-stroke is a utilitarian bike.
I wanted my bike to have a bit more of a vintage look and therefore I ordered three emblems from Phil of Pride of Cleveland Scooters. There are two styles, brushed and polished. I ordered the brushed as Phil said they looked best. On the back of these ultra thin emblems is a 3M adhesive that will stick your bike for life.
Using butcher paper I traced my cowl and marked where I wanted my large emblems to go on my cowls. I cut out a small rectangle to fit the emblem in. I then washed my scooter and dried it. I first installed the SMALL emblem on the legshield of my scooter. Afterwards, I removed my cowls and using painters tape I locked my butcher paper template in place and placed one of my LARGE emblems in place. I repeated this process for the other cowl.
I have had these emblems on my scooter for many years now and they have survived the bad weather here, washes, and rain. They are an inexpensive detail that makes your scoot look quite nice.
Chrome legshield addition
The Bajaj Chetak & Legend do not come with chrome around the legshield, but you can add after market chrome.
Here's what you'll need:
1) Cuppino chrome trim
2) Heat gun ($10 at Harbor Freight Tools)
3) Dremel tool
4) Thick workman gloves and rag towels
5) Screw driver
6) Painter's tape
Do NOT use pliers! Let me repeat that, under no circumstance are you to use pliers. Pliers will create small "dents" in your legshield trim. The guy who helped me install mine used pliers and I saw the dents in the making and told him to stop. Too late!
STEP ONE:
Prepare the chrome to fit over the black trim around your Bajaj's legshield. Especially around the curves, you may find that the split in the chrome legshield may not be wide enough to fit over your legshield. What you need to do is to use your Dremel tool to sand/grind this split so that it is wide enough. Here's how . . . with a Dry Erase marker mark the areas on your legshield that are too narrow. Now, with your Dremel tool ONLY grind the INNER SIDE of the split (this side is the side that goes inside the scoot and will NOT been seen by anyone). Do NOT grind the outer side (this side is visible from the front of your scooter) as you need as much of a lip as possible so it lies flush with the front of your leghield.
STEP TWO:
Using painter's tape protect the black trim and paint around your scooter's legshield. Wait until the hottest day of the year at the hour when the sun is at its hottest point and cover your scooter or put it in a metal shed along with the chrome legshield. The goal is to get your scoot and chrome legshield trim piping HOT so that the trim is pliable. After your scooter and trim has sat under the hot sun for a few hours ask a friend to come over and help you. Wearing thick gloves and using a rag towel to hold the left piece of chrome trim (note: the right side needs to go on second because it goes on top of the other piece where they meet) heat it with a heat gun until its near to hot to hold. This will take a while. Now align the trim with your legshield and ask yourself which direction (from top to bottom or vice versa) will require the least bending to the most. Work in that direction. You want to start with the least bending possible and you will find that the bigger curves will be less because you have straightened out the smaller ones first (for the most part). Have your friend hold the end of the legshield trim in place as you slowly shape the chrome to fit the curves on your bike. Take your time. As you move up have your friend follow closely behind with pressure.
Now repeat that step with the other piece of chrome. Remember to get it piping hot first. After you have it installed apply more heat to both sides. Working with your friend start from bottom to top on the first piece of chrome installed. Have your friend apply pressure and you are to secure a screw in place. Now your friend will apply pressure and the next screw hole making sure to keep the chrome pushed tight against the bike. Add the second screw. Repeat until done. Repeat on the final piece of legshield.
Note:
1) I do NOT like the pointed screws as they will damage your paint. The vintage bikes used a flat tipped screw to not damage the paint. You might consider investing in these.
2) This process is a big paint in the butt. Please take your time and don't rush it. It is not easy nor fast, but it looks great when done right.
Thursday, 27 December 2007
Rear shock update
Replaced the rusty stock spring (rear shock) with a MeCur spring. Dropping it off at Christopher Markley's today to be powder coated black. Need to rebuild the rear shock so we can install the engine in the frame.
Powder coat cost = $12.50
Photo of rear shock stock is on Technica page #51. Click the page to enlarge. It's a good idea to study these photos from time to time when restoring an SS180 so you can remember what the finished bike should look like . . . for example had I revisited the photos I would have known where the junction box goes and I would not have thought something was missing . . . see previous post: "Engine - Missing Fastener?".
Powder coat cost = $12.50
Photo of rear shock stock is on Technica page #51. Click the page to enlarge. It's a good idea to study these photos from time to time when restoring an SS180 so you can remember what the finished bike should look like . . . for example had I revisited the photos I would have known where the junction box goes and I would not have thought something was missing . . . see previous post: "Engine - Missing Fastener?".
Purchasing tires
I just visited Clauss Studios to investigate if he may already have molds for the rubber for the floor rails for my wife's 1967 Vespa SS180 restoration. While I visited Clauss Studios I found that he sells Shinko brand tires (formerly Yokohama) for cheap! We bought white wall'd Sava Kran Touring tires for $19.99 on clearance "as-is" from Motor Sport Scooter. A good deal on a mid-grade tire, but there are some small defects with the white walls. Sava Krans seem to loose thread fast and not last long; therefore it's a much better deal with Clauss.
http://www.claussstudios.com
I am riding Michelin sport tires on my Bajaj Chetak right now and I am very happy with them. I bought them through a local motorcycle shop that sells scooters and paid $28 per tire I think. A great price.
http://www.claussstudios.com
I am riding Michelin sport tires on my Bajaj Chetak right now and I am very happy with them. I bought them through a local motorcycle shop that sells scooters and paid $28 per tire I think. A great price.
Wiring (without battery)
Thanx to Palmog for both the instructions below and a spare junction box, which he shipped to me from Japan, as I believe my junction box is in bad shape as I remember it being taped up in painter's tape like my High Tension Coil (or there is a slim chance that is in good shape and just taped together for storage purposes -- not to loose screws. I can't remember). We did upgrade our stock HT Coil, which the case cracked and broke, to a PX125 HT Coil. The idea being better spark and brighter lights.
Emailed from Palmog:
Hi Jeremy,
ok, then you have an AC bike with original wiring harness. Assuming so, we can use the wiring diagram for GS160 non-battery model here as a basic,
http://www.scooterhelp.com/manuals/VSB1T.manual/24.jpg
We need four terminal on the junction box as the figure shows. (dots on the junction box in the figure show the terminals) What we need to care is one thing and it is the connection on the HT coil. The PX125 HT coil has only one terminal for the hot (not grounded) AC terminal and we need to connect the wires colored red both from the stator and the junction box to the only terminal (terminal #2 on the figure) on the HT coil. (the terminal at the end of the wire from the junction box would be grounded when you push the kill switch)
Then you would need to connect the ground wire (which colored as black) to the metal body of the HT coil or on the motor case. I'm using the fixing nut of the HT coil as a terminal and connect both black wire from the stator and the junction box to the nut. In other words, the terminal #1 on the figure (original HT coil) is not exist on the PX125 HT coil but the fixing nut can be recognized as the terminal.
To summarize this, first on the junction box,
connection #1: Yellow wires (for tail/speedo/head lighting system) from the stator and wiring harness
connection #2: Sky blue wires (for the stop lamp) form the stator and wiring harness
connection #3: Green wires (for the horn) from the stator and wiring harness
connection #4: Red wires (for the ignition) from the stator/HT coil and wiring harness.
Second on the PX125 HT coil,
connection #5: Red wires from the stator/junction box. (it's your choice that where you connect each two on the HT coil or the junction box but you need at least one connection on each terminal)
Third on the PX125 HT coil fixing nut or the motor case,
connection #6: black wires from the stator/junction box.
Special note: thanx to Palmog, Tom G., Christopher Markley, and all the others that consistently share information with me. Many of my blog readers benefit from your knowledge and expertise.
Emailed from Palmog:
Hi Jeremy,
ok, then you have an AC bike with original wiring harness. Assuming so, we can use the wiring diagram for GS160 non-battery model here as a basic,
http://www.scooterhelp.com/manuals/VSB1T.manual/24.jpg
We need four terminal on the junction box as the figure shows. (dots on the junction box in the figure show the terminals) What we need to care is one thing and it is the connection on the HT coil. The PX125 HT coil has only one terminal for the hot (not grounded) AC terminal and we need to connect the wires colored red both from the stator and the junction box to the only terminal (terminal #2 on the figure) on the HT coil. (the terminal at the end of the wire from the junction box would be grounded when you push the kill switch)
Then you would need to connect the ground wire (which colored as black) to the metal body of the HT coil or on the motor case. I'm using the fixing nut of the HT coil as a terminal and connect both black wire from the stator and the junction box to the nut. In other words, the terminal #1 on the figure (original HT coil) is not exist on the PX125 HT coil but the fixing nut can be recognized as the terminal.
To summarize this, first on the junction box,
connection #1: Yellow wires (for tail/speedo/head lighting system) from the stator and wiring harness
connection #2: Sky blue wires (for the stop lamp) form the stator and wiring harness
connection #3: Green wires (for the horn) from the stator and wiring harness
connection #4: Red wires (for the ignition) from the stator/HT coil and wiring harness.
Second on the PX125 HT coil,
connection #5: Red wires from the stator/junction box. (it's your choice that where you connect each two on the HT coil or the junction box but you need at least one connection on each terminal)
Third on the PX125 HT coil fixing nut or the motor case,
connection #6: black wires from the stator/junction box.
Special note: thanx to Palmog, Tom G., Christopher Markley, and all the others that consistently share information with me. Many of my blog readers benefit from your knowledge and expertise.
Monday, 24 December 2007
Bajaj history (abridged)
In the early to mid 1960s Vespa outsourced to India to build Vespa Sprints. The Indian factory had to uphold Vespa's quality assurance and factory system. The relationship was short lived as legal issues came into play. The end product was that Bajaj purchased the factory from Vespa. After this happened the Bajaj badge began to appear. At first, with any brand transition, the bikes had a Vespa and a Bajaj badge on the legshield. You can find these bikes in the USA. Or you may be riding a Vespa Sprint that was made in India and not know it.
As you can see in the photograph above of this classic Bajaj, it's basically a Vespa Sprint with its trapezoid headset. It's a handsome bike.
The "Chetak" was named after a famous horse that belonged to a Indian Prince, I believe. The horse belonged to him and helped a lot in battle and such. Pictured above is a 1980s Chetak I believe. In my opinion, much more handsome than the newer 4-stroke Bajaj Chetaks. These bikes were 2-stroke and can be found in the states. They often sell for less than a Vespa of similar model.
In the 1980s Bajaj tried to sell in the USA. It didn't go well. It returned again in the early 2000s with Al Kolvites as the president of Bajaj USA. 4-stroke versions were imported. Bajaj USA died around 2006 and became Argo USA -- Chinese plastic scoots. A strong Bajaj culture existed via Bajaj Yahoo Group while the bikes were being sold. Note: some Bajaj are still available new as 2005 models. Check with dealers. The only thing about the newer Bajaj's that I could do without is the horncast and a little more chrome, say floor rail kit and a legshield trim would have been an added bonus.
Like its predecessor and its competition the Chetaks & Legends are work horses, like the Vespa P200s, and take a heck of beating and keep on running. The roads in India are harsh with pot holes and the Bajaj was built to withstand the harsh roads and to be easily worked on and repaired.
Like the Stella (LML), Vespa P-Series, the Chetak is the last of line of the work horse scooters. The Stella and Vespa horncasts are much more handsome than the Chetak and there is more chrome on the other bikes, but I have spoken with dealers and the overall report is that the 4-stroke Chetaks have way less problems than its 2-stroke rivals. I intend to give my one-year-old son my Chetak when he gets his license. My Chetak should run for a long long time. I ride hard and it remains to be very trustworthy and dependable.
If I was to buy my first scooter all over again, I'd buy a Vespa PX150 from Vespa Mechanicsburg for $3600 (sale price -- only have 3 left). My wife's Chetak costs $1999 and you just can't beat that price. Now the Chetak is $3000 and the Stella is $3300. Genuine Scooters runs a very smart marketing campaign for its Stella, because the bike uses Vespa aftermarket products. So this makes upgrades and accessories CHEAPER and easier to find. I have no intention of selling my Chetak, because it is a tank of a scoot, but if you're purchasing you should consider all your options and what you plan to do with your scoot . . . ie buy a Stella or PX and put a DR177 kit on it for a cheap speed/power upgrade. Or buy a Vespa for resale value. If you're looking to be accepted into the classic/vintage culture either a Vespa P-series or Genuine Scooter (Stella) will get you in. But if you're looking for a dependable daily rider that requires next to no maintenance, a 4-stroke Bajaj Chetak or Legend will deliver that to you at an affordable price.
If you come across a Bajaj from 1980 or earlier for a good price (it will be cheaper than a similar Vespa) it is worth picking up. The vintage crowd will accept you as well. And the bike is prettier than the newer bikes.
As you can see in the photograph above of this classic Bajaj, it's basically a Vespa Sprint with its trapezoid headset. It's a handsome bike.
The "Chetak" was named after a famous horse that belonged to a Indian Prince, I believe. The horse belonged to him and helped a lot in battle and such. Pictured above is a 1980s Chetak I believe. In my opinion, much more handsome than the newer 4-stroke Bajaj Chetaks. These bikes were 2-stroke and can be found in the states. They often sell for less than a Vespa of similar model.In the 1980s Bajaj tried to sell in the USA. It didn't go well. It returned again in the early 2000s with Al Kolvites as the president of Bajaj USA. 4-stroke versions were imported. Bajaj USA died around 2006 and became Argo USA -- Chinese plastic scoots. A strong Bajaj culture existed via Bajaj Yahoo Group while the bikes were being sold. Note: some Bajaj are still available new as 2005 models. Check with dealers. The only thing about the newer Bajaj's that I could do without is the horncast and a little more chrome, say floor rail kit and a legshield trim would have been an added bonus.
Like its predecessor and its competition the Chetaks & Legends are work horses, like the Vespa P200s, and take a heck of beating and keep on running. The roads in India are harsh with pot holes and the Bajaj was built to withstand the harsh roads and to be easily worked on and repaired.
Like the Stella (LML), Vespa P-Series, the Chetak is the last of line of the work horse scooters. The Stella and Vespa horncasts are much more handsome than the Chetak and there is more chrome on the other bikes, but I have spoken with dealers and the overall report is that the 4-stroke Chetaks have way less problems than its 2-stroke rivals. I intend to give my one-year-old son my Chetak when he gets his license. My Chetak should run for a long long time. I ride hard and it remains to be very trustworthy and dependable.
If I was to buy my first scooter all over again, I'd buy a Vespa PX150 from Vespa Mechanicsburg for $3600 (sale price -- only have 3 left). My wife's Chetak costs $1999 and you just can't beat that price. Now the Chetak is $3000 and the Stella is $3300. Genuine Scooters runs a very smart marketing campaign for its Stella, because the bike uses Vespa aftermarket products. So this makes upgrades and accessories CHEAPER and easier to find. I have no intention of selling my Chetak, because it is a tank of a scoot, but if you're purchasing you should consider all your options and what you plan to do with your scoot . . . ie buy a Stella or PX and put a DR177 kit on it for a cheap speed/power upgrade. Or buy a Vespa for resale value. If you're looking to be accepted into the classic/vintage culture either a Vespa P-series or Genuine Scooter (Stella) will get you in. But if you're looking for a dependable daily rider that requires next to no maintenance, a 4-stroke Bajaj Chetak or Legend will deliver that to you at an affordable price.
If you come across a Bajaj from 1980 or earlier for a good price (it will be cheaper than a similar Vespa) it is worth picking up. The vintage crowd will accept you as well. And the bike is prettier than the newer bikes.
Wear your badge
There have been a few vintage snobs that have refused to ride with me because I ride a "new" Bajaj Chetak. They dislike new bikes, plastic bikes, and twist-n-goes (TNGs). I have even been told to #*%$ off because I ride a Bajaj. Note: you will get more love than a Vespa ET though -- isn't that weird.I am not a snob and will ride with anyone who scoots -- period! My wife is the same way and she is the one who owned her Chetak before me and introduced me to the world of scootering.
On the flip side, my wife owns a 1967 Vespa SS180 (probably the 3rd rarest Vespa and highly collectible) and I own a 1962 Lambretta TV175. Both bikes are being restored from the ground up and they are documented at:
www.vesparestoration.blogspot.com
www.lambrettarestoration.blogspot.com
If those specific individuals ever see me on either vintage bike and ask me to ride with them I will tell the to #*%$ off. Ah, the spirit of scooterist!
Both my wife and I have coats with patches sown on and the Bajaj patch above is my favorite patch by Bajaj. I'd like to add it to my jacket. I have the "Never Shiftless", which came on the jacket when my buddy gave it to me. It's a bit cheesy for me. But I will wear a Bajaj patch beside a Lambretta patch with no shame and no snobbery.
Wear your patches Bajaj riders!
Safety first -- headlight
12V 35/35W H4 -- Halogen bulb. Fits Vespa PX 2001 and newer, Bajaj Chetak 4T, most Kymcos, and more.This summer while visiting home (S.F.)I rode my buddy's, Eric's fully restored and mildly mod'd, P200. Fast bike. He had a halogen bulb in the headlight. Evening approached and it quickly got dark. The halogen bulb was amazing! It made such a difference compared to the stock bulb. We switched bikes and I rode his Vespa Sprint. When riding towards one another I could see how easy it is for cars to see a scooter with a halogen bulb compared to a stock bulb. Eric said that this small upgrade was a "no brainer" for him and he feels safer riding at night with a halogen bulb.
The bulb will cost you less than $10 depending on where you buy it. I know that KTM-parts.com (KTM = motorcycle) sells it for $8.95. I expect that an auto parts store may sell these for even less. Your local scoot shop could be as high as $20.00.
Feliz Natal!
Aqui vai a minha prenda de Natal, especialmente destinada aos enlat... hum, utilizadores de automóveis... (eu vou ser um deles nos próximos dias, a Marta e eu alugámos um carro para conseguir distribuir as prendas este ano, ainda tenho que arranjar maneira de fazer isso de scooter)
Feliz Natal a todos!
Feliz Natal a todos!
Sunday, 23 December 2007
Scooter Camping 2007
Dave and me on our annual scooter camping weekend along the Appalacian Trail. Not as many slides from this trip as in the previous "Scooter Camping 2006" slide show, but you can see we had a good time. This time we went geocaching and that was a fun treasure hunt for the scoots. No cars. We pack like backpackers with single burner stove, etc. At one point Dave ran out of gas and had to fill a camp stove fuel bottle with gasoline on our way home; though my camp stove will run off of unleaded gasoline as well so the bike and stove could share the same fuel.
Avoid stripping threads
You would be amazed at how easy it is to strip threads on your scoot using tools such as a ratchet set or monkey wrench. In fact, I have stripped the threads that my valve adjust cover screws into with a monkey wrench (see previous post titled "Oil Change") and I have stripped the studs on my rear wheel hub with a ratchet set. More on that later.The best way to avoid this is to purchase a torque wrench for $12 (sale price from your local Harbor Freight Tools) and set the correct "foot pounds" prior to tightening everything up. This will avoid any errors at a cheap price. Do NOT use the torque wrench to remove nuts or screws as it could damage the internals of the wrench.
The "free" way to avoid stripping threads is to tighten with your hands all the way and then just snug things up a hair with wrench. Use the Bajaj hub/wheel wrench ONLY when removing and especially when installing the lug nuts. Don't kick the wrench like you do on a car. Do it all by hand. This will help you avoid stripping anything. If you want to be extra safe use nylock nuts -- but make sure to replace them every time you change the tire.
Friday, 21 December 2007
Dias Sombrios
Não coloco aqui um post há muito tempo, e isso tem-me feito sentir algo culpado. Parece injusto e desconsiderativo para com a minha vasta legião de leitores, por isso aqui vai mais uma entrada, mas vou já avisando que não tem um tom muito optimista, sendo a minha falta de optimismo a razão principal da minha ausência.
Tenho andado a ponderar as minhas escolhas em matéria de transporte. A fiel Scoopy é imbativel no meio puramente urbano, e estou contente com isso. Mas para lá das ruas das zonas mais centrais da cidade, a verdade é que deixa algo a desejar. Mesmo muito espremidos, os 13 cavalos (aproximadamente) de potência, as suspensões de reduzida progressividade e curso, a falta de protecção aerodinâmica e de capacidade de carga tornam as excursões extra-urbanas algo complicadas. Mesmo as inúmeras e por vezes inevitáveis vias rápidas que invadiram a cidade se tornam um osso duro de roer para a Scoopy, principalmente se a viagem for feita a dois. E agora com o tempo frio e chuvoso, dou por mim a evitar usar a fiel montada...
Mas há ainda outro problema.
Com esta questão de pensar em mudar de scooter, que seria naturalmente de superior cilindrada, dou por mim a ponderar os riscos desta opção. Tenho visto tanta coisa na estrada, e lido outras tantas barbaridades nos media, que fico a pensar se valerá mesmo a pena o risco. Não falo por mim estritamente, que tenho ainda algum juízo, uso protecções qb e sei os riscos que corro. Mas sou obrigado a partilhar a via pública com todo o tipo de pessoas sem qualquer educação ou o mais elementar respeito pelo menos pela vida dos outros. Essas pessoas, na maioria, sentem-se seguras dentro das suas jaulas com 4 rodas e sentem sobretudo aquela sensação se impunidade que paira perpétuamente sobre os crimes da estrada em Portugal.
Para ilustrar este estado de coisas, posso mencionar um pequeno episódio que me sucedeu ontem. Não circulava de scooter, mas a pé, (o que equivale ao mesmo nível de proteccão) e estava a cruzar uma conhecida avenida da capital, numa enorme e visível passadeira, com o semáforo verde para mim. Vinda de um cruzamento (com semaforo de virar intermitente), a acelerar descontraidamente surge uma senhora num Renault Clio verde que olha para mim, vê-me no meio da passadeira e continua a acelerar na minha direcção como se nada fosse. Tive tempo de sair da frente, mas deixei o chapéu de chuva para trás (estava a chuviscar), chapéu esse que bateu no espelho e carroceria lateral do Clio. Apesar do estrondo, da violência da coisa, a senhora continuou como se nada fosse, aparentemente apressada para chegar ao próximo semáforo vermelho, a uns metros dali.
Este tipo de atitude é cada vez mais comum na estrada. A principal causa de morte e lesão grave entre os utilizadores de duas rodas são as colisões com automóveis ligeiros que ignoram prioridades, não vêem, não param quando a isso estão obrigados e que sistematicamente se fazem valer do facto de se sentirem seguros dentro dos seus veículos para intimidar os outros utilizadores da via pública. Muitas vezes as vitimas destes automobilistas são depois abandonadas à sua sorte, porque estas pessoas não param mesmo depois de matarem alguém.
É claro que a imagem que prevalece entre o público em geral é de que são os utilizadores das duas rodas que são uns "motards" lunáticos, que mancham as estatísticas com mais acidentes por veiculo que em qualquer outra classe, que fazem "cavalinhos" a 250 km/h, que ultrapassam de qualquer maneira e que naturalmente se matam por aí... Mas os estudos dizem coisas bem diferentes. E a minha própria observação também. Eles não se matam por aí, os utilizadores de veículos de duas rodas são mortos. E ultimamente não consigo evitar pensar nisto.
Tenho andado a ponderar as minhas escolhas em matéria de transporte. A fiel Scoopy é imbativel no meio puramente urbano, e estou contente com isso. Mas para lá das ruas das zonas mais centrais da cidade, a verdade é que deixa algo a desejar. Mesmo muito espremidos, os 13 cavalos (aproximadamente) de potência, as suspensões de reduzida progressividade e curso, a falta de protecção aerodinâmica e de capacidade de carga tornam as excursões extra-urbanas algo complicadas. Mesmo as inúmeras e por vezes inevitáveis vias rápidas que invadiram a cidade se tornam um osso duro de roer para a Scoopy, principalmente se a viagem for feita a dois. E agora com o tempo frio e chuvoso, dou por mim a evitar usar a fiel montada...
Mas há ainda outro problema.
Com esta questão de pensar em mudar de scooter, que seria naturalmente de superior cilindrada, dou por mim a ponderar os riscos desta opção. Tenho visto tanta coisa na estrada, e lido outras tantas barbaridades nos media, que fico a pensar se valerá mesmo a pena o risco. Não falo por mim estritamente, que tenho ainda algum juízo, uso protecções qb e sei os riscos que corro. Mas sou obrigado a partilhar a via pública com todo o tipo de pessoas sem qualquer educação ou o mais elementar respeito pelo menos pela vida dos outros. Essas pessoas, na maioria, sentem-se seguras dentro das suas jaulas com 4 rodas e sentem sobretudo aquela sensação se impunidade que paira perpétuamente sobre os crimes da estrada em Portugal.
Para ilustrar este estado de coisas, posso mencionar um pequeno episódio que me sucedeu ontem. Não circulava de scooter, mas a pé, (o que equivale ao mesmo nível de proteccão) e estava a cruzar uma conhecida avenida da capital, numa enorme e visível passadeira, com o semáforo verde para mim. Vinda de um cruzamento (com semaforo de virar intermitente), a acelerar descontraidamente surge uma senhora num Renault Clio verde que olha para mim, vê-me no meio da passadeira e continua a acelerar na minha direcção como se nada fosse. Tive tempo de sair da frente, mas deixei o chapéu de chuva para trás (estava a chuviscar), chapéu esse que bateu no espelho e carroceria lateral do Clio. Apesar do estrondo, da violência da coisa, a senhora continuou como se nada fosse, aparentemente apressada para chegar ao próximo semáforo vermelho, a uns metros dali.
Este tipo de atitude é cada vez mais comum na estrada. A principal causa de morte e lesão grave entre os utilizadores de duas rodas são as colisões com automóveis ligeiros que ignoram prioridades, não vêem, não param quando a isso estão obrigados e que sistematicamente se fazem valer do facto de se sentirem seguros dentro dos seus veículos para intimidar os outros utilizadores da via pública. Muitas vezes as vitimas destes automobilistas são depois abandonadas à sua sorte, porque estas pessoas não param mesmo depois de matarem alguém.
É claro que a imagem que prevalece entre o público em geral é de que são os utilizadores das duas rodas que são uns "motards" lunáticos, que mancham as estatísticas com mais acidentes por veiculo que em qualquer outra classe, que fazem "cavalinhos" a 250 km/h, que ultrapassam de qualquer maneira e que naturalmente se matam por aí... Mas os estudos dizem coisas bem diferentes. E a minha própria observação também. Eles não se matam por aí, os utilizadores de veículos de duas rodas são mortos. E ultimamente não consigo evitar pensar nisto.
Thursday, 20 December 2007
Nova Soul Lisboeta, os Soulbizness
Esta semana o Rapaz do Chapéu esteve a conversa com o Rodrigo e o Campos. Eles que estão por detrás dos Soulbizness, uma das bandas revelação deste ano e que promete abanar as coisas com a edição do seu primeiro álbum em 2008. Para quem ainda está a torcer o nariz e só acredita vendo. Avisamos que estes soul brothers estarão no dia 28 no Music Box acompanhados pelos restantes músicos ao vivo.
Uma boa ocasião para testemunhar a celebração soul.
Quando surgiram os Soulbizness e de quem foi a ideia?
Os Soulbizness surgiram há um ano. Eu e o Campos já nos conhecemos há mais tempo e tínhamos vindo a trocar ficheiros através da Internet com ideias um do outro, mas só há um ano é que decidimos encontrarmo-nos pessoalmente para fazer das ideias, músicas concretas, com cabeça tronco e membros. Depois, há sete meses, arranjámos os músicos para começar a ensaiar as canções e poder tocar ao vivo.
Nasceu logo com essa ideia de fusão de soul, funk, pop, com um pouco rock e até gospel?
Suponho que sim, embora nunca tivéssemos falado sobre se íamos fazer soul ou funk ou pop. O Campos está muito virado para a nu-soul embora as referências dele cheguem ao dub, ao dub-step e ao kuduro, e por isso, as ideias que ele me enviava tinham esse reflexo. Eu sou apaixonado pelo rythm and blues, por quase tudo o que era feito nos 70’s e a parte mais suja dos 60’s... tudo o que componho, ou todas as respostas que dava às ideias do Campos também iam nesse sentido... naturalmente.
Suspeito que a pop apareça nas nossas músicas por minha causa, no sentido em que preciso de atar todas as pontas de uma canção. Prefiro fazer coisas objectivas e pouco abstractas... procuro fazer, um verso, um refrão, um bridge, um pré refrão... quando utilizas estas fórmulas acabas com uma canção pop, tenha a sonoridade que tiver! Pode ser que seja só uma fase.
O punk que vocês afirmam como influência reflecte-se mais em algumas letras e em algum espírito do que no som, verdade?
Sim. O punk aparece de várias formas e claro que não é a influência mais óbvia. Aparece nalgumas letras que falam de descontentamento com o emprego e com o estilo de vida generalizado; aparece na energia e aceleração de algumas das nossas canções; aparece na minha voz que é projectada contra o microfone de forma rude e sem cuidado.
Na vossa lista de influências no myspace está lá o Stevie Wonder. Não tens medo que o pessoal menos informado pense que a vossa onda é "I Just Called to Say I Love You"?
Ena pá!? (risos...)... percebo bem a pergunta... mas não posso fazer nada contra isso. O Stevie Wonder é um génio, criou músicas que fazem parte do nosso dia-a-dia e muitas vezes nem fazemos ideia. Há dezenas de canções dele que foram re-gravadas por outros artistas como single: lembro-me assim de repente dos red hot chili peppers com o “Higher Ground”, o Eric Clapton que lançou o “Ain’t Gonna Stand for It”, o “Gangster Paradise” do Coolio, o “Wild Wild West” do Will smith, o “As” do George Michael com a Mary J. Blidge, etc, etc, etc... Mas quer dizer... eu nem preciso de justificar o valor do Stevie Wonder e eu até gosto do “I just Called to Say I Love You”, gostava de conseguir escrever uma canção tão simples e tão bonita como essa, ainda que o tempo e o exagero a tenham remetido para o piroso. Tenho um lado lamechas que também faz com que a minha canção preferida do Paul Weller seja a “You do Something to Me”.
Na minha opinião vocês, dentro de uma determinada onda, conseguem criar um som original, apelativo mas de qualidade, não repetitivo, luminoso. Existem outras bandas portuguesas com que se identifiquem?
Isso são muitos elogios juntos... obrigado.
Há bandas de que gostamos, não percebo bem o alcance da pergunta “banda com que se identifiquem?”... Gostamos muito de Loopless, de Cool Hipnoise, há um projecto novo chamado DUVAL que para quem goste de um nu-soul mais laid back é perfeito... gostamos de Clã, Ornatos Violeta, o Campos é fã de grande parte do hip-hop.
O facto de se assumirem banda "soul" é interessante. Dá-me a impressão de que é quase um manifesto. Ou é apenas impressão minha?
É um manifesto. Mas com as nossas próprias premissas. Apesar da sonoridade ser próxima da soul, posso também valer-me do cliché e dizer que é soul, principalmente porque nos sai da alma e isso é notório nos concertos. Eu digo que uma das coisas mais contraditórias da soul (alma) é que tem carne! É soul porque é transpirado e porque se sente a carne.
A soul dos anos 60´s/70´s continua imbatível. É dificil superar a exelente colheita Soul dos 60 e 70's?
Em Portugal não há essa tradição. No mundo...talvez podes perguntar aos Gnarls Barkley e à Amy Winehouse.
Planos para o primeiro álbum existem?
A vida das editoras não está fácil... Os músicos continuarão a fazer o que lhes compete, que é musica. As editoras é que deixaram de a saber vender. No entanto, os Soulbizness, foram os vencedores do TMN GARAGE SESSIONS 2007 e faz parte do prémio gravar um disco pela EMI. Está agendado para Setembro de 2008. Estamos a contar com isso.
Os concertos ainda foram poucos não é?
Não nos podemos queixar. Eu e o Campos estamos juntos há um ano, mas só reunimos banda para concertos há sete meses. Com eliminatórias do TMN e 11 concertos, são 14 actuações... Em sete meses, dá duas por mês... uma banda sem disco, completamente desconhecida e com cachet. Estamos mesmo contentes e sem nenhum motivo de descontentamento.
Então o que podemos esperar no dia 28 no Music Box? Será uma actuação em grande?
Espero que sim... nós estamos lá para transpirar. A verdade é que dia 28 de Dezembro é um dia assustador... há muita gente fora de Lisboa e a preparar a passagem de ano. Estamos a esforçar-nos bastante para levar pessoas ao concerto. Esta entrevista nesta altura é boa!!! Era óptimo se suscitasse interesse nos visitantes do Blog do Vespa Gang e que viessem ao concerto!!! Texto:O Rapaz do Chapéu
myspace deles aqui.
Monday, 17 December 2007
Mods na tv
É um dos raros espaços de televisão que temos e que vale a pena marcar lugar no sofá. Chama-se Fuzz e é mais um programa com o carimbo da Subfilmes. Transmitido na SIC Radical, todas as terças-feiras ás 21.45 estreia um novo Fuzz, cada programa depois repete nos dias seguintes noutros horários. Nele estão contidos os melhores 25 minutos de cultura urbana, tratada de uma forma rigorosa e brilhantemente ilustrada. O Vespa Gang aceitou o desafio do jornalista Artur Soares Silva e colocou-se a jeito para uma peça sobre o movimento mod, eis o resultado. O Fuzz está na rua!!
Saturday, 15 December 2007
Purchasing retro tires
I just visited Clauss Studios to investigate if he may already have molds for the rubber for the floor rails on an SS. I understand that the width of replacement floor rail rubber is not wide enough for the original floor rails on the SS; therefore if my original rail can be reused I will not be able to replace the rubber.
While I visited Clauss Studios I found that he sells Shinko brand tires (formerly Yokohama) for cheap! We bought white wall'd Sava Kran Touring tires for $19.99 on clearance "as-is" from Motor Sport Scooter. A good deal on a mid-grade tire, but there are some small defects with the white walls.
It's a much better deal with Clauss.
http://www.claussstudios.com
While I visited Clauss Studios I found that he sells Shinko brand tires (formerly Yokohama) for cheap! We bought white wall'd Sava Kran Touring tires for $19.99 on clearance "as-is" from Motor Sport Scooter. A good deal on a mid-grade tire, but there are some small defects with the white walls.
It's a much better deal with Clauss.
http://www.claussstudios.com
Engine: Missing Fastener?
When Christopher Markley delivered our completely rebuilt SS engine he told me there were two items I'd need to look into. We'll talk about one now. There is a hole in the engine case that looks like a fastener should be used to seal it, but when Christopher investigated the parts diagram he saw nothing. Also, it did not appear to be threaded. Pictured above are my spare cases, with the same hole, but this hole is threaded very finely; therefore I am assuming something is screwed in there. I am pointing at the hole for your reference in the picture. Please post a comment and let me know what belongs in there.Once I find out what screw goes in there, I can clean up the threads and put the correct fastener in place.
Thanks in advance for your help.
FOLLOW-UP / LESSON LEARNED:
This is where the junction box goes. (Thanx Paul)
Here is a photo of the stock junction box for your reference.
Vespa Christmas
Just received in the mail my wife's and my Christmas gift in one Scooter Works box. I asked for items that I need first to get the reassembly started. See previous "Christmas Wish List 2007" post for items asked for. We'll know more on the morning of 12/25 what we have. No matter what . . . it's more than we have now and we should be able to move forward some what. It's certainly a welcomed package in our household. I predict some movement, in the restoration world, is right around the corner (note: it's not a big box though so it does not mean the completion of the bike) .
Floor rail installation guide
In the not too distant future I hope to be reassembling the Vespa and since I am so terrible at just sitting and twiddling my thumbs I have been researching on how to install the floor rail kits.
I posted my question on BBS and Self Preservation Society sent to me a "how to" post he had written with photos (copy and paste link into your browser):
http://www.scooterbbs.com/bbs/dcboard.php?az=printer_friendly&forum=10&topic_id=316305&mesg_id=316316
I then wrote mentor Tom G. and asked if he approved of this method and this is what Tom G. said:
Lesson Learned:
VSC owners -- the closest floor rail kit is for the Rally. Note: it is a bit short and maybe a dozen people tops in the USA will notice this so Rally is not a bad way to go. But make sure that you purchase the floor rail kit and shape it against your frame BEFORE it is painted or you run a high risk of messing your paint job up.
Again, sucks to me. Learn from my mistakes. I have to find a way to shape my floor rail (if I don't use originals) kit along my freshly painted bike. Not smart!
For more info search "floor rail" on the Vespa-Sport Yahoo Group. Good info in the archives.
I posted my question on BBS and Self Preservation Society sent to me a "how to" post he had written with photos (copy and paste link into your browser):
http://www.scooterbbs.com/bbs/dcboard.php?az=printer_friendly&forum=10&topic_id=316305&mesg_id=316316
I then wrote mentor Tom G. and asked if he approved of this method and this is what Tom G. said:
Yes. Very easy, but you need to practice a bit toAt this point I want to find out if my floor rails are reusable (I hope to just clean them up if they have tiny scratches and such) and if I can find replacement rubber for it. Maybe Claus Studio can produce the rubber?
make sure your tools and settings are correct. Also,
you need a quality air regulator to get the chisel to
slow down enough to control it - the cheapie
regulators don't work well.
I also wrote up a hand peening method on the BBS years
ago, and it has been posted on various restoration
sites. I recommend that you take a refrigerator
magnet and punch a hole in it. Place it around the
end of the rivet that sticks out of the body before
you start hammering. That way if your hammer slips
your paint is a little protected.
Tom
Lesson Learned:
VSC owners -- the closest floor rail kit is for the Rally. Note: it is a bit short and maybe a dozen people tops in the USA will notice this so Rally is not a bad way to go. But make sure that you purchase the floor rail kit and shape it against your frame BEFORE it is painted or you run a high risk of messing your paint job up.
Again, sucks to me. Learn from my mistakes. I have to find a way to shape my floor rail (if I don't use originals) kit along my freshly painted bike. Not smart!
For more info search "floor rail" on the Vespa-Sport Yahoo Group. Good info in the archives.
Headlight problems
Here's a question for a potential column...
My headlamp doesn't work unless I turn on the high-beam, so essentially my running light isn't running. Are our bulbs dual element bulbs which may mean that only the one element has burnt out. If that's the case, changing the bulb should solve the problem. Or could this be a bigger electrical issue? I guess the easiest thing to do would be to pop out the bulb and check, but I haven't gotten around to it yet, mainly because I'm not entirely sure how to do it. Have you ever had to replace a headlamp bulb?
-- David
David, I do not believe the bulb is dual element. I remember years ago reading a Bajaj Yahoo Group post from president Al Kolvites that the high beam works off reflection and does not require extra juice from the battery.
The first place I would look is your switch, since the high beam does work. I have emailed Al Kolvites for advice and am waiting to hear back from him.
I believe the light bulb is an easy change. Refer to the parts manual, which you can download for free from www.argousa.com
-- Jeremy
Problem solved (follow-up):
"So, I got a halogen bulb (had to order from a nearby motorsports super-store, $9.95) and I'm happy to say that it solved my dead running light situation. No need to investigate the wiring. I just put it in today so I'll be able to see the difference tomorrow night on my ride home from work. " -- email from David.
The halogen bulb is a great thing to invest in . . . see my "Safety first -- headlight" blog post.
My headlamp doesn't work unless I turn on the high-beam, so essentially my running light isn't running. Are our bulbs dual element bulbs which may mean that only the one element has burnt out. If that's the case, changing the bulb should solve the problem. Or could this be a bigger electrical issue? I guess the easiest thing to do would be to pop out the bulb and check, but I haven't gotten around to it yet, mainly because I'm not entirely sure how to do it. Have you ever had to replace a headlamp bulb?
-- David
David, I do not believe the bulb is dual element. I remember years ago reading a Bajaj Yahoo Group post from president Al Kolvites that the high beam works off reflection and does not require extra juice from the battery.
The first place I would look is your switch, since the high beam does work. I have emailed Al Kolvites for advice and am waiting to hear back from him.
I believe the light bulb is an easy change. Refer to the parts manual, which you can download for free from www.argousa.com
-- Jeremy
Problem solved (follow-up):
"So, I got a halogen bulb (had to order from a nearby motorsports super-store, $9.95) and I'm happy to say that it solved my dead running light situation. No need to investigate the wiring. I just put it in today so I'll be able to see the difference tomorrow night on my ride home from work. " -- email from David.
The halogen bulb is a great thing to invest in . . . see my "Safety first -- headlight" blog post.
Thursday, 13 December 2007
Now, THAT is What I Call Bling!
Though, I'd hate to try to get it insured...That's right folks, the new contender for Most-Blinged-Out-Car-of-All-Time is "Ninety-Nine Auspicious Dragons", a true heavyweight, weighing in at 2 tons. The car is encrusted with dragons carved out of mammoth ivory and yak bone, which is further embellished with gold and diamonds. And you pimps out there thought your spinning rims and dvd players were
Monday, 10 December 2007
The Lambretta Story
The Lambretta StorySeveral months ago, I posted about the advertising montages of YouTube member Bubbledesign, which they set to some great old Northern Soul.Well they have this kooky little number up now, which shows the evolution of Lambrettas through vintage TV adverts... set of course to Northern Soul.Thanks to Valoise for the heads up on Bubbledesign's Lambretta ephemera video.
My second purchase: R1 shock conversion
(Sorry I rotated the picture before I saved it, but Blogger did not accept)My second purchase is items needed for converting a Yamaha R1 or R6 rear shock for the Lambretta. Pictured above is a "184" shock from Century Springs and brass bushings. I spent a total of $40.00 on these items. A nice fellow from Lambretta Club USA named Jake posted a request to do a big order and I went in with him to cheapen the price of the springs.
For "detailed instructions on converting an R1 shock" copy and paste this url into your web browser:
http://www.lambretta.org/index.php?pid=13
I am NOT big on mods at all, but did not have a rear shock included with my TV when I bought it and I wanted a inexpensive performance shock. I will powder-coat the spring black to honor the factory look -- at least an effort to.
Now all I need to do is place an order on eBay for the rear shock. I hope to buy a $30 or less practically-NIB (new in box) R1 or R6 shock since some Yamaha riders upgrade their shocks before they hit their first 100 miles.
Crossing the US on a Ruckus
Y'all surely know by now that the Dragon is a sucker for any tale of cross-country wandering. When such feats are accomplished on two wheels, it's even cooler, and the smaller the bike... well the more props are due. Well, the intrepid Wan from Seoul, South Korea saved money he'd earned from working in a restaurant for a year to live his dream of touring the US on a 49cc Honda Ruckus.That, my
Aparece e vem rir conosco neste Natal!
A ideia surgiu de repente e achamos que tinha rodas para andar. A expressão é mesmo esta, pois foi após um raide pela cidade num destes dias natalicios, que nos lembramos de juntar o gang e amigos para celebrar mais um Natal.
Cada um de voçês, traz uma prenda (embrulhada codignamente,ok?!) e depois, durante a hora do chã, vamos realizar um sorteio com todas as prendas. Uma a uma, vamos abrir a boca de espanto (ou não!) pela imaginação e criatividade de cada um dos participantes! O preço limite estabelecido para cada prenda, é de apenas 2 euricos. Lembrem-se, que o que interessa aqui é surpreender e gerar o máximo de gargalhadas! A mais hilariante das prendas, ganha outra prenda...igualmente espantosa e inarrável!
Encontro marcado para o próximo Domingo a tarde (a partir das 15horas!), na Outra Face da Lua, na Baixa. Vai haver música da boa e não precisamos sequer de chamar o tão conhecido Coro de Santo Amaro de Oeiras!!
Vespa Vagabond
I attempt to be meticulous in my restoration blogs (see Vespa and Lambretta), but the quality of the writing goes by the wayside for the content.
I have always wanted to tour coast-to-coast on a scoot. This woman did it solo and documented the trip with quality writing (which I appreciate as a English teacher) and photographs (which I also appreciate as a amateur photographer of film cameras).
I have chatted about scooter camping before, but this woman took the ride to a whole new level by traveling alone on her Vespa from SF to NYC over two months on back roads through no named towns. An amazing trip indeed.
Check her blog out at:
http://www.vespa-vagabond.blogspot.com
I recognize that this post if off-topic for the restoration of my Lambretta TV175, but for the sake of documentation . . . her blog honors the craft with a great read and good information.
Thanx to my wife for showing me it.
I have always wanted to tour coast-to-coast on a scoot. This woman did it solo and documented the trip with quality writing (which I appreciate as a English teacher) and photographs (which I also appreciate as a amateur photographer of film cameras).
I have chatted about scooter camping before, but this woman took the ride to a whole new level by traveling alone on her Vespa from SF to NYC over two months on back roads through no named towns. An amazing trip indeed.
Check her blog out at:
http://www.vespa-vagabond.blogspot.com
I recognize that this post if off-topic for the restoration of my Lambretta TV175, but for the sake of documentation . . . her blog honors the craft with a great read and good information.
Thanx to my wife for showing me it.
Vespa Vagabond
I attempt to be meticulous in my restoration blogs (see Vespa and Lambretta), but the quality of the writing goes by the wayside for the content.
I have always wanted to tour coast-to-coast on a scoot. This woman did it solo and documented the trip with quality writing (which I appreciate as a English teacher) and photographs (which I also appreciate as a amateur photographer of film cameras).
I have chatted about scooter camping before, but this woman took the ride to a whole new level by traveling alone on her Vespa from SF to NYC over two months on back roads through no named towns. An amazing trip indeed.
Check her blog out at:
http://www.vespa-vagabond.blogspot.com
I recognize that this post if off-topic for the restoration of our SS180, but for the sake of documentation . . . her blog honors the craft with a great read and good information.
Thanx to my wife for showing me it.
I have always wanted to tour coast-to-coast on a scoot. This woman did it solo and documented the trip with quality writing (which I appreciate as a English teacher) and photographs (which I also appreciate as a amateur photographer of film cameras).
I have chatted about scooter camping before, but this woman took the ride to a whole new level by traveling alone on her Vespa from SF to NYC over two months on back roads through no named towns. An amazing trip indeed.
Check her blog out at:
http://www.vespa-vagabond.blogspot.com
I recognize that this post if off-topic for the restoration of our SS180, but for the sake of documentation . . . her blog honors the craft with a great read and good information.
Thanx to my wife for showing me it.
Vespa Vagabond
I attempt to be meticulous in my restoration blogs (see Vespa and Lambretta), but the quality of the writing goes by the wayside for the content.
I have always wanted to tour coast-to-coast on a scoot. This woman did it solo and documented the trip with quality writing (which I appreciate as a English teacher) and photographs (which I also appreciate as a amateur photographer of film cameras).
I have chatted about scooter camping before, but this woman took the ride to a whole new level by traveling alone on her Vespa from SF to NYC over two months on back roads through no named towns. An amazing trip indeed.
Check her blog out at:
http://www.vespa-vagabond.blogspot.com
I have always wanted to tour coast-to-coast on a scoot. This woman did it solo and documented the trip with quality writing (which I appreciate as a English teacher) and photographs (which I also appreciate as a amateur photographer of film cameras).
I have chatted about scooter camping before, but this woman took the ride to a whole new level by traveling alone on her Vespa from SF to NYC over two months on back roads through no named towns. An amazing trip indeed.
Check her blog out at:
http://www.vespa-vagabond.blogspot.com
The Dragon's Portfolio and Guerrilla Marketing
I began this blog almost two years ago with intent of it being a platform for promoting my creative endeavors, as well as a tool for archiving the assorted internet weirdness that inspires me. In that time, well it's turned into something slightly different.Ironically, I guess one of the reasons for that divergent development is that I have a hard time tooting my own horn, despite that being the
Art of Noise
That's right kiddos, the Dragon's here with another flashback video post, eating through your bandwidth like a chainsaw through a baby grand.Enjoy the techno-anarchistic glee!and what 80s flashback would be complete without a visit from Max Headroom?
Sunday, 9 December 2007
Battery Care
During the winter I ALWAYS store my battery in the basement, where it is dry and the temperature does not fluctuate (it stays about 70 degrees) hooked up to a float charger. This will add to my battery's life span.
Battery care is pretty simple for scooters, whether you're riding a P-Series Vespa, Stella, or Bajaj. Scoots don't have alternators, like cars, and their batteries don't fair well when the scooter is not ridden daily. Say you're a weekend rider only -- the best thing to do is disconnect your battery Monday through Friday. But if you're like me and ride as often as the weather will let you . . .
you should invest in a "float charger," which will NOT overcharge your battery like a trickle charger will. Float chargers will give juice as needed and shut off when not. They cost about $30 at your local scoot shop, but you can buy then on sale for $5.48 at Harbor Freight Tools (available online). They go on sale several times per year. Run the float charger when ever you are not riding.
I purchased my Parts Unlimited RCB9-B battery at a local motorcycle shop for $19.99. I would recommend looking for your local "battery warehouse"-like distributor for the best deal. Battery Warehouse, where I live, charges $36 for a Yuasa YB9B battery, which is a premium battery. Scoot shops charge $55-60 for this battery. The two brands and model numbers I gave you will work on the Bajaj Chetak, Stella, and Vespa P-Series bikes.
Expect three to five years for the average life of a battery. The Yuasa will give you five if you care for it.
When the charged liquid gets low in one or more of your battery cells, add distilled water. This will increase the life of your battery.
Battery care is pretty simple for scooters, whether you're riding a P-Series Vespa, Stella, or Bajaj. Scoots don't have alternators, like cars, and their batteries don't fair well when the scooter is not ridden daily. Say you're a weekend rider only -- the best thing to do is disconnect your battery Monday through Friday. But if you're like me and ride as often as the weather will let you . . .
you should invest in a "float charger," which will NOT overcharge your battery like a trickle charger will. Float chargers will give juice as needed and shut off when not. They cost about $30 at your local scoot shop, but you can buy then on sale for $5.48 at Harbor Freight Tools (available online). They go on sale several times per year. Run the float charger when ever you are not riding.I purchased my Parts Unlimited RCB9-B battery at a local motorcycle shop for $19.99. I would recommend looking for your local "battery warehouse"-like distributor for the best deal. Battery Warehouse, where I live, charges $36 for a Yuasa YB9B battery, which is a premium battery. Scoot shops charge $55-60 for this battery. The two brands and model numbers I gave you will work on the Bajaj Chetak, Stella, and Vespa P-Series bikes.
Expect three to five years for the average life of a battery. The Yuasa will give you five if you care for it.
When the charged liquid gets low in one or more of your battery cells, add distilled water. This will increase the life of your battery.
Outdoor storage
Some where deep back in the archives of the Bajaj Yahoo Group there is a post that recommends going to Home Depot or Lowes and spending $20.00 on a BBQ cover (made of P.O.? something or other) and saving yourself $100 on a special motorcycle cover. I used bungee cords around mine and my bike was outside all winter long fighting the elements because I did not have a garage. The cover did a great job. If you park in a parking lot I recommend buying reflective adhesive stickers and putting them on your cover for cars to see at night. Don't want you scoot knocked over.
Oil Change
The oil pictured above was recommended to me by my dealer, Mike Lawless, of Philly Scoots. I recognize that it is synthetic, which goes against the manufacturer's recommendation. But, Mike knows his stuff and he has brother have both raced motorcycles and worked on them for a long time. Mike also runs Yahamalube in his Chetak. I have run it in my bike and my wife's for years without any problems.
Changing your oil is a quick and effortless job. Above you will find the instructions on how do so with the amendments handwritten on it.Note: when you put your cylinder valve cover on (1) ALWAYS replace the o-ring. It costs about $.40 cents at Ace Hardware. Better yet, buy the big-o-bag of o-rings from Harbor Freight Tools for $5.00 or when it goes sale for $2.00 and you will have an assortment of 200 o-rings on hand. (2) Hand tighten the cylinder head valve cover back down until your fingers can not move it. Now with a wrench tighten the smallest amount until the it is snug. Be CAREFUL as I once stripped mine because I wanted to make sure it was tight. Stupid. I had to have a local Kawasaki shop Heli-Coil it for me. Unnecessary mistake. Fortunately, it cost me less than $40 to fix.
Performance pipes
I kick myself every day . . . my wife ordered chrome legshield for me for Christmas along with Bajaj Chetak badges from Phil of POC many years ago. He offered her $50 for POC pipe, because the first 50 buyers would get that price. I said, "hold off on it baby. I can get later when we have more cash." I thought it might go up to $75, not $300!
I have heard that the Hot Rod Al pipe is very nice too. I have ridden a Chetak with POC and the "noise" everyone complains of does not bother me. The acceleration was nice with increased power in the middle of the power range. Below is Al's pipe.
Here's a guy with a POC pipe on his Chetak:
Hot Rod Al pipes go for about $280 and can be bought directly from him or Scooter West. I'd like to buy one one day . . . better yet . . . I'd like Chetak to offer a 186cc or 200cc top-end for the Bajaj Chetak.
Like they say, "there is no replacement for displacement!"
I have heard that the Hot Rod Al pipe is very nice too. I have ridden a Chetak with POC and the "noise" everyone complains of does not bother me. The acceleration was nice with increased power in the middle of the power range. Below is Al's pipe.
Here's a guy with a POC pipe on his Chetak:
Hot Rod Al pipes go for about $280 and can be bought directly from him or Scooter West. I'd like to buy one one day . . . better yet . . . I'd like Chetak to offer a 186cc or 200cc top-end for the Bajaj Chetak.
Like they say, "there is no replacement for displacement!"
4-Stroke vs. 2-Stroke
When it comes to rallies like the Cannon Ball (coast-to-coast) the Bajaj Chetak has one benefit . . . it is a lot less likely to seize because it has a 4-stroke engine.
Four strokes have dedicated oiling systems, putting oil under pressure where
it needs to go. Two strokes have to rely on the gas/oil mixture getting squeezed in where it's needed.
On the flip side . . . 150 cc 4-stroke kicks out the power of a 125 cc 2-stroke. A 2-stroke runs hotter, harder, and faster! That is why the motor-cross bikes are 2-stroke.
That is the only thing I'd change about my Bajaj Chetak if I could. I wish they installed a 200 cc 4-stroke engine (175 cc 2-stroke). That would have been great as I often feel underpowered on my Chetak, especially when riding double or going up hills.
Four strokes have dedicated oiling systems, putting oil under pressure where
it needs to go. Two strokes have to rely on the gas/oil mixture getting squeezed in where it's needed.
On the flip side . . . 150 cc 4-stroke kicks out the power of a 125 cc 2-stroke. A 2-stroke runs hotter, harder, and faster! That is why the motor-cross bikes are 2-stroke.
That is the only thing I'd change about my Bajaj Chetak if I could. I wish they installed a 200 cc 4-stroke engine (175 cc 2-stroke). That would have been great as I often feel underpowered on my Chetak, especially when riding double or going up hills.
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