Finishing up the headset & steering column

While waiting on the grommets to arrive we can finish up the steering column/headset assembly.

Here's what needs to happen:

1. Brake & clutch levers need to be sanded smooth (nicks and chips and scratches) with super SUPER super fine (wet) sandpaper and finished off with a steel wool pad. And then polished. I need to buy a polish. * The same needs to happen for the kick start lever.

2. Using a tap & dye set . . . the threads for the clutch lever housing need to be cleaned up. Blue Locktite on the lever screw threads may be required when the lever is installed. We can reuse the original washers and the new clutch lever screw. **** Remember the advice I got from BBS is that the clutch lever housing was NOT threaded and it was recommended that I tap the lever screw out. It WAS THREADED! When seeking advice ALWAYS check with at least 2-3 sources before acting. I will not make that mistake again! Also, there are a few on BBS that know actually know what they are talking about. Meet them and keep in contact with them and eventually you will learn who you can trust.

3. The brake lever housing threads in the headset need the paint cleaned off for the hardware to fit. Maybe use tap and dye set.

4. I ordered a new speedo lens. Very carefully the speedo bezel needs to be removed and then the entire speedo needs to be hand cleaned as does the bezel. I have a new lens and seals coming along with a new speedo cable. Then the speedo needs to be greased and installed.

5. Hand grips can be installed. And the clutch and throttle rods can be installed into the headset and cable ends attached.

6. The headset is brand new and came with hardware. Ted and I need to determine if any wiring is required. Does the bulb Ted bought fit?

7. Did Ted buy a speedo bulb?

8. I still need to purchase the high beam indicator light and then the headset and steering column will be 100% complete.

Front fork assembled

The fork/steering column is fully assembled. Though my front hub pivot was in okay shape with not too much wear, I opted to replace it. Ted removed the old one and installed the new one. Back in his shop days, he learned to use a thicker grease on roller bearings like these, because it acts as a "glue" and holds them in place when packing the bearings and makes your life a whole lot easier.

As you can see below, I reused all my hardware, only replacing the grease nipple, which is a moot point, because we installed sealed bearings in the front hub, but I want this mildly custom SS180 to look true to the period.

We replaced the brake pads and sealed everything back up. The paint job sure looks sharp and I am so happy we rebuilt the front shock and kept it stock.

The bottom race on the steering column was a little misshaped. Ted straightened it. These pieces are easy to replace if need be.

One thing I did not do is to use fiberglass tape around the bearing races and any other surfaces that should not be painted. Make sure that you take the time to research and think about all areas that should NOT have paint on them and then to cover them with fiberglass tape pre-medium blasting and painting (you can change the tape to a painter's tape after medium blasting). Then you will only need to clean the areas.
Ted used his wire wool and sand paper, and when appropriate his Dremel, to clear paint where there should not be paint, ie my bearing race.

You can see the bearing race is clean here.

Before reinstalling the front fender and steering column Ted greased and installed the bearings.

Disassembly Part 5

Early posting . . . Here is the final slide-show for the disassembly of the SS180.
In this slide-show:
(1) removal of steering column
(2) removal of engine
(3) removal of front fender
(4) close look at shock mounts

All that is left is the body.

You can also play the slide show at Google Video as a larger image.

Note to readers:If you want/need to see a specific photo or two in this slide-show post a comment and I will upload the photos requested to this blog entry.

Please post a comment and let me know if these five slide-shows were helpful or not. Thank you.

HELP ME READERS -- Steering Column Bearings

Howdy folks I need the numbers off of BOTH steering column bearings (they are the balls-in-ring types) that are labeled #34 and #35 on this page:

http://www.scooterhelp.com/manuals/VSB1T.VSC1T.parts.manual/150.jpg

The part numbers are:
77024 (top bearing cage)
77025 (bottom bearing cage)



One of my bearings is beat bad and the other is MIA (might have been left with the guy we bought the bike from -- which was in pieces and in boxes when we got it). The only number my shop guy could give me was from the busted up bearing was "13515" -- does that jive with what you guys have?

Would you please help me and post a comment (click the comment button) with the SKF bearing numbers, engraved on on each bearing? I need that number to go to my local SKF dealer and buy them ASAP.

Lesson Learned:
SKF does not make the bearings. They cost about $15 or less for the two bearings. Purchase from your local scoot shop. The bearings are universal and are not unique to the SS180. Cost under $9 for both including tax.