HeadLight Assembly & Headset Internals

As my readers may remember there were two items that needed my attention with the headset, but I went ahead and put it together before we moved to make sure nothing got lost in transit.Pictured above the headlight bezel screw that broke when installing the headlight bezel.  This headlight assembly fits a VSD (the Rally 180/200).  Remember that the later year VSCs in the USA were required to have a round headset.  The screw pictured here is part S15544 at ScooterWorks, where I bought the assembly.
To remove the bezel I heated it so the metal would expand with a heat gun.  It took about one to two minutes.
When ever banging on the Vespa I look for the softest thing I can find, such as a wooden paint stirrer.  The bezel was too snug, due to paint.  So I gently tapped the rubber mallet against the wood paint stirrer and it worked great.
Above note: the broken bezel screw and a chip from the paint.  This is okay, because the headset is aluminum and will not rust.  Plus the bezel will hide it and no one will ever see it.
Another close up of the broken bezel screw.
I need to replace both that screw and the bezel hardware for 1970s headlight assemblies, part number #15221 at ScooterWorks.
The headset assembly was supposed to arrive with a light bulb.  It did not.  I need one.  I used a Sharpie to label what wires plugged into what terminals.
The final items I need for the headset is the terminal for the speedo light bulb as well as the bulb itself.

I have more done on the Vespa and will post more soon.  I also have been working more on my Bajaj Chetak.  You'll never guess what I found during the oil change.  Click here to find out.

Sealants and Adhesives

I cleaned up and polished the emblems with a very mild abrasive pad, tooth brush, and Mother's Chrome polish.  They cleaned up well, but show their age in scratches and chips if you look very close and stare at it.  (They are plated, not chrome.  You can have them replated with excellent results, I've heard.)  I opted not to wet sand them as I worried it would dull them.  I used 3M's Plastic and Emblem Adhesive.  It is messy stuff (like a silicon that is usually liquidy) and it comes out fast -- so be CAREFUL.  You are to press it on, remove it for 10 to 15 minutes, and the reapply.  I did not do that because it was so messy.  I ran a fan on it all night to get air around.  I only had three studs on the back that were way to short to put the emblem on correctly, plus one hole was filled in my body.  So instead of drilling it, I chose to file it off and use the adhesive.  So "NOT" the purist technique.

I used a small file to clear out the two holes in the legshield to install the front emblem.  This photo is of the file on the floor rail, but it is of the same principal so I am showing you.  Don't drill stuff out.  It's messy and screws your paint.  Take your time and hand file EVERYTHING!  You will regret it if you don't.  I do.  Learn from my mistakes.

To install the gas tank cap seal I used another 3M product designed for seals and gaskets. It dries super fast and does a great job.

Things really came together on the bike last night. The headset is on and all the wiring is labeled. One recommendation I have for running the clutch and front break cables is to remove the inner cables and run them down starting from the headset. It's much easier that way. Pictured below you'll see blue painter's tape over the Vespa emblem, which holds it down flush to the frame while the 3M Adhesive dries.



Here's the next HOT items to tackle:
1) Determine why the gas tap flows so poorly and replace if needed.
2) Connect the electrical.

  

Finishing up the headset & steering column

While waiting on the grommets to arrive we can finish up the steering column/headset assembly.

Here's what needs to happen:

1. Brake & clutch levers need to be sanded smooth (nicks and chips and scratches) with super SUPER super fine (wet) sandpaper and finished off with a steel wool pad. And then polished. I need to buy a polish. * The same needs to happen for the kick start lever.

2. Using a tap & dye set . . . the threads for the clutch lever housing need to be cleaned up. Blue Locktite on the lever screw threads may be required when the lever is installed. We can reuse the original washers and the new clutch lever screw. **** Remember the advice I got from BBS is that the clutch lever housing was NOT threaded and it was recommended that I tap the lever screw out. It WAS THREADED! When seeking advice ALWAYS check with at least 2-3 sources before acting. I will not make that mistake again! Also, there are a few on BBS that know actually know what they are talking about. Meet them and keep in contact with them and eventually you will learn who you can trust.

3. The brake lever housing threads in the headset need the paint cleaned off for the hardware to fit. Maybe use tap and dye set.

4. I ordered a new speedo lens. Very carefully the speedo bezel needs to be removed and then the entire speedo needs to be hand cleaned as does the bezel. I have a new lens and seals coming along with a new speedo cable. Then the speedo needs to be greased and installed.

5. Hand grips can be installed. And the clutch and throttle rods can be installed into the headset and cable ends attached.

6. The headset is brand new and came with hardware. Ted and I need to determine if any wiring is required. Does the bulb Ted bought fit?

7. Did Ted buy a speedo bulb?

8. I still need to purchase the high beam indicator light and then the headset and steering column will be 100% complete.

Disassembly: Part 2

Come back tomorrow and I will have another slide-show for you. I expect to have two or three more after this one.
In this slide-show Eric continues to:
(1) review the bike
(2) remove the speedo
(3) remove the headset

I will post the next slide-show of disassembly this weekend -- maybe tomorrow. I expect I have one to two more slide-shows to make.

You can also play the slide show at Google Video as a larger image.

Note to readers:If you want/need to see a specific photo or two in this slide-show post a comment and I will upload the photos requested to this blog entry.

Round headlight models

I have a round headlight on my SS and have been having problems with the scoot shops finding the lens that goes in the hole above the speedo.

Tom G. told me that an "eye" / "lens" is what goes there, but the shops didn't know what I meant and did not have the part number I provided them.

I emailed Palmog, who then email Collin (who Palmog labeled as the one with "the most knowledge about an SS in the USA" -- a hell of a nice compliment about Collin").

Here's what Collin told me:

Hi Jeremy,

Hiro in Japan forwarded an email you sent to him regarding US spec later SS headset parts. A round light 1967 SS180 headset is going to be identical parts-wise to a non-battery US style Rally 180 headset. The "eye" part you are looking for is a colored gem that the high beam supposedly shines through (though it hardly works anyways). Greg Clauss from Clauss studios remakes them, they are super cheap. www.claussstudios.com

Cheers,

-Collin

Ps...the gems come in Red and Orange. I've seen red on all Rally 180's and late Super Sports.