Reference: Stock Wire Harness

For Krissy . . .

Here's a look with the shrink tubing removed:

Click to enlarge photos and see colors more clearly.
Stock wire harness.
Headlight/indicator bulb wires (Note: there is also a BLUE wire here that was cut too short to be seen in the picture below, but it is part of the headlight):

Kill switch wires:
Horn wires:
Rear brake light switch wires:

Tail light wires:
HT Coil wires:

My stator was rewired exactly to match stock and photos are posted on this blog.

Metal Fuel Rod

As usual, finding "true" parts for the SS180 in this day in age can be challenging. When installing my gas tank I accidently broke the tip of the fuel rod (gas on/off/reserve) switch -- Part #84424. The odd thing is the handle on the switch is plastic on my stock one, which doesn't make since to me because metal was used. So maybe my wife's SS180 had an aftermarket switch on it. Even finding an original used one is a bit challenging. I found one through a local rider, but he has to hunt it down and recommended I just buy a new one because I can count on that. At the time I thought metal ones were still available at a few shops.

I attempted to drill a small hole through the end of the fuel rod and re-use my original. It did not work, because the fuel rod needs to be able to dangle at a steep angle to allow you to install the gas tank and get the fuel rod through the frame. I won't post pictures of that. I was able to find an original Italian made all metal one, but note that the color is not true. The handle is not black. So it was a toss up for authenticity -- Italian, metal, and silver or reproduction, plastic, and black. I asked my wife what she wanted on her bike and she chose the metal Italian one. It won't look stock, but the bike is not a stock color either. And seeing as it is metal and Italian it is closer to the original. I hope to receive it by Monday in the mail.

SS180 & Rally180

Pictured above is a 1971 Vespa Rally 180 I found for sale on Scoot dot net. Note the similarities with the headset and tractor tail light on my wife's VSC. Clearly, the piston-ported engine in her bike is different than the rotary in the Rally 180, but frame wise they are close. I know that the Dept. of Motor Vehicles required the late USA models of the SS180 to have a round headset for weather-proofing. Not sure about the tractor tail light. And now that I have learned that I have a rear brake switch from the Rally180-200. There are some specific differences in the USA models that few Vespa owners know about. The question I now have, per my post just before this is . . .

Do both bikes share the same wiring loom? If not, I am in trouble.

Also, does any one know the breakdown of similarities / differences in detail on these two bikes?

Rear brake switch

With the help of David at First Kick Scooters, I have come to the realization that my stock rear brake switch was actually one from the Rally 180. It would be in grey with a grey gasket. You can see my stock one pictured here on the right. Note the guts of the stock one. It is in the "open" position, which means when you push the plunger that the connection is formed. SIP pictures their black Rally 180-200 here and you can see the internals are the same as my stock one. So now my big concern is, since I don't use a "Closed" GS/SS180 brake switch, should I have also used a Rally 180 wire loom (if they are different). Anybody know this answer?

Rotate rims & hubs correctly

While the scoot lived in Ted's garage, he was kind enough to tackle a bit of the reassembly. One item he took care of for me was to purchase the new tubes and put the tires on the rim. I hadn't noticed until a reader pointed out, but the tube came through the rim wrong and the rims were connected to the hubs backwards.It was an easy change for me and just one more item that needed to be done. So I tackled the front tire a week ago and the rear tire today. An item worth investing in for me is a torque wrench -- a nice Craftsman for $90. I purchased mine on sale at Harbor Freight for $12 or $20 or something like that. I figured since it is a hand tool I should be safe. I was wrong. I just pulled it out and I can't remember, but I am not sure the last time I used it if I put it on the lowest setting so to preserve the intricate mechanisms. All I know is it no longer works and I now need to invest in a quality one.

I did not fix the spare tire set up yet, as the tube inside it was pinched between the rim halves when put together (make sure to pump up with air before sealing the halves) and I figure I will fix that when I put a new tube in. No rush as the visible tires are now correct.

Spark plug changed and finished

As some of you may remember I had a NGK style upgrade on my spark plug with the nice tight ball bearing connection, but was warned by a reader that it stood too tall and would dent the underside of the cowl when my wife rode over a big bump. You can see a photo and read the comments about my modified spark plug clip here. I didn't take any chances and changed it back to stock, which is a good thing.It takes very little work to remove the spark plug clip. No need to cut the wire and chance the wire being too short -- mine was in danger of being too short. I used pliers and gently walked it around the clip's end and listened for a small "cracking" sound. It did and I was able to pull the wire out with no effort at all.As you can see it was a clean break. I am no expert, but logic tells me the fact that the modified NGK spark plug clip has a sharp nail like pin going into the cables inside the wire produce both a superior connection and a better water/weather proof protection than the stock one did.In an effort to increase the connection "area" between the wire and the spark plug clip, I recommend trimming the rubber on the wire back and folding the wire back over itself so it literally rests against the clip when you tighten it down. That way you have two connections: the spike in the clip, which goes through the wire, and the folded over wire you created. Click to enlarge the photo to see what I did. Thanks to David at First Kick, who taught me this trick.

Grinding hardware stamps

As you know the stock kickstand hardware was not stainless steel, nor did it have a stamp on it. I want stainless steel, but I do not want the stamp; therefore I grind'd all four bolt heads for the kickstand hardware. Also note that there are two different washer sizes here. I was in a hurry before I moved West so I just got the bike together. Now that I am settled I can correct those minor errors.

I used my Dremel and just very lightly ground down the stamps and made it all look even. I was able to handhold the bolts.


It is my hope that over the time the bolt head will weather a little bit and look a little more stock with less glossy shine on where I polished it with the Dremel.

HeadLight Assembly & Headset Internals

As my readers may remember there were two items that needed my attention with the headset, but I went ahead and put it together before we moved to make sure nothing got lost in transit.Pictured above the headlight bezel screw that broke when installing the headlight bezel.  This headlight assembly fits a VSD (the Rally 180/200).  Remember that the later year VSCs in the USA were required to have a round headset.  The screw pictured here is part S15544 at ScooterWorks, where I bought the assembly.
To remove the bezel I heated it so the metal would expand with a heat gun.  It took about one to two minutes.
When ever banging on the Vespa I look for the softest thing I can find, such as a wooden paint stirrer.  The bezel was too snug, due to paint.  So I gently tapped the rubber mallet against the wood paint stirrer and it worked great.
Above note: the broken bezel screw and a chip from the paint.  This is okay, because the headset is aluminum and will not rust.  Plus the bezel will hide it and no one will ever see it.
Another close up of the broken bezel screw.
I need to replace both that screw and the bezel hardware for 1970s headlight assemblies, part number #15221 at ScooterWorks.
The headset assembly was supposed to arrive with a light bulb.  It did not.  I need one.  I used a Sharpie to label what wires plugged into what terminals.
The final items I need for the headset is the terminal for the speedo light bulb as well as the bulb itself.

I have more done on the Vespa and will post more soon.  I also have been working more on my Bajaj Chetak.  You'll never guess what I found during the oil change.  Click here to find out.

VSC NOS Parts List

Thank you Jen, from Vespa Super-Sports Yahoo Group, for putting together the most comprehensive SS180 parts list that I have seen yet.  It is still a work in progress Jen says. 

Per Jen's post:

"i started making up a list of parts,sorted by the original parts book table/#, system, category, description, original parts #, new parts # and possible source(s). it's a Google Doc, and I made it available to anyone to view. if you are looking for something particular, you can use the 'Sort' feature at the top of each column to sort it by whatever means you need. pretty nifty and could be a great resource when completed."

Keep an eye on this to see when it is complete. It is a must see resource for VSC owners.

Remember, I also have a pretty comprehensive parts list as an Excel file, which I am happy to email on request.  I have already given that list to two or three people.

Another SS180 in my backyard

Recently I received a comment to a previous post from Mark. Mark is from Lilitz, PA and I live in Harrisburg, PA. I asked Mark what the scoots story is and for photos of the bike, especially the floor rails since that is what I am working on.


Hi Jeremy -

We replaced the rubber, but re-plated the chrome and the bullet ends and re-installed it so as far as I know it should be a stock install. The new rubber is from one of the Indian bikes however, and is not holding up well at all. Most of the major work was actually done by MotorStrada down in Baltimore and they did an excellent, if extremely slow job We finally got tired of waiting, and brought it back in pieces and finished the assembly ourselves. He did have the waffle hammer for the rivets, but could never get it running right.

We ended up taking it to an 75 year old family friend who is a German immigrant and used to run a Mercedes repair shop. Turned out he was Vespa factory trained, and we never knew it even though we'd been friends for 30 some years. The replacement coil was bad, and we ended up putting the original back in. It runs great now, except that he says has it 'de-tuned' a bit until its got 500 miles on it for a break in. It used to have a top end around 65, but now tops out about 50. He says I'll get that back when he re-tunes it.

The paint is "Porsche Alpine White." No one kept records of the paint mix at the factory, and white was one of two colors the SS came in. We had a different friend who owns an auto body shop computer match the paint for us, and this was the closest.

Attached is a picture of it when we brought it home and two I shot tonight of the floor rails. If there's something specific you're looking for, I'll be happy to shoot that. The only modification we made since then was adding an after market crash bar kit. My grandfather always had one on it, and this was as close to that kit as we could find.



I run it about twice a week to work - which is almost within sight of B&B. That's why she's a little dirty. I've also taken it on one or two 50 mile charity rides. My father has a 2005 Vespa "Twist and go" which easily hits 70, but for me this bike has more history. I used to ride it as a kid in the 70's with my grandfather, my wife and I did all our house shopping on it nearly 20 years ago, and now my kids ride it with me.

Three tips from my experience - be careful with the gas cap. If it doesn't fit right, the 2 cycle oil eats the clear coat off the paint. Use gloves when you ride it, even in summer. The oil in your hands will discolor the grips. Register it as an antique. If you do a standard registration, you have to put battery in it because PA inspection requires the lights be on all the time.

Let me know if you need anything else. As you can tell, I'm happy to show it off.

Mark


ANOTHER EMAIL:

Hi Jeremy -

The scoot was purchased second hand in the early 70's from a Cushman dealer in Hanover, so it's entirely possible they came from the same place. I will have to look and see if I can find any information. I believe there is a sticker on the owner's manual.

The SS180 was my grandfather's 2nd Vespa. He started taking me for rides around East Berlin from the early 70's until the late 80's. When he passed away in 1987, I only wanted one thing from the estate - the Vespa - which was still in original condition. In 1992, it moved to Lititz with me - and my wife and I put several hundred miles on it that summer, going from open house to open house looking for a house to buy.

About 2002, my dad found me trying to solve a chronic vapor lock problem that the scoot had had for about 10 years, and buffing out the paint. He offered to have the engine rebuilt because he was getting concerned about the reliability. An engine rebuild turned into a complete restoration. Mark at Motostrada in Baltimore did most of the work, and he did an excellent job, but it took at llloooonnnngggg time. We finally got it back from him in pieces and did a lot of the final assembly ourselves. Mark wasn't able to get the engine to run correctly - and in telling the store to an old German family friend - we found out he was factory Vespa trained! He was a Mercedes mechanic and learned to fix Vespas in the late 40's. He had the motor purring in an evening. Turned out we had a bad coil from the engine rebuild.

Since it was 100% original when Mark got it, he was able to take pictures and put it back together exactly as it came apart - with of course, stainless rivets, and powder coating instead of cheap rivets and silver paint.

Now I take it back and forth to work in good weather, and take my kids - 12 and 8 - out on it like my grandfather took me. We've put a couple of hundred miles on it since the restoration including two charity rides.

I don't have any "before" pictures readily available, but i can look for some. They're likely on film and not digital so it may take me a while to find any. You won't see any major difference except for a couple of more dings and dents.

Right now I'm trying to find some nice way to add a little luggage carrying capacity to it, so I can pack an extra jacket, or my camera.

Let me know if you need pictures of anything specific, I'll be happy to help you out.

Mark

Frame Grommet List

Below is a list of the badly needed rubber grommets I need to proceed with the restoration. I am fine tuning the list, but in its current state it may save you time from needing to create one. I looked for a list that someone else already created, but couldn't find it. Why recreate the wheel, right? I hope this proves helpful for you:

1. Centerstand spring (Part: 47872).
2. Seat Buffers (Part: 56730)
3. Fuel rod grommet (Part: 47460).
4. Fuel line (Part: 93510).
5. Fuel line grommet (Part: 84262)
6. Fuel line to airbox rubber.
7. Grommet for electrical harness and spark plug wire. Using a Vespa PX HT coil.
8. Grommet to frame wiring?
9. Cable grommet for HT coil wires(Part: 48171).
10. Cable Hose (Part: 90541)
11. Throttle and choke cable grommet. Fits 60s to 80s Vespas.
12. Grommet for clutch gears and rear brake.
13. Qty: 2 -- Cowl hook grommet (Qty: 2)
14. QTY: 2 -- Cowl hook sheath (Part: 24041)
15. QTY: 2 -- Cowl peg buffer (Part: 87488)
16. Buffer for cowl latch (Qty: 2)
17. Fuel line grommet for more most 60s and 70s Vespas.
18. Gas Tank Cap Gasket for large frames (Part: 56678).
19. Seal for the fuel assembly – goes beneath the sediment bowl (Part: 26042)
20. Fuel assembly gasket for inside gas tank ????
21. 4 hole gasket for fuel cock assembly. Fits GS and Super Sport. (Part: 13836)
22. Air Bellow (Part: 97366)
23. Gasket for air bellow connection (Part: 97493)
24. Brake pedal rubber
25. Brake switch gasket (Part: 82783)
26. Brake Bellow for most 60s and 70s Vespas (Part: 57321)
27. PX HT Coil cover
28. UPPER -- Coil side insulating cap for VSB1-VSC1 (Part: 57042).
29. LOWER -- Coil side insulating cap for VSB1-VSC1 (Part: 56169).
30. Cable coil grommet.
31. Speedo nut top grommet.
32. Speedo sheath seal.
33. Clamshell Speedo glass (Part: 84803).
34. Clamshell Speedo gasket inside glass (Part: 84804)
35. Clamshell Speedo gasket (Part: 49458?)
36. Rubber grommet fits around steering lock.
37. Handle bar segment grommet. U-shape rubber grommet.
38. Front hub oil seal (Part: 94119).

Fuel tap

As always when I am working through a problem I walk you through my problem and to my solution. This time is no different. Ted W. and I have been on the phone discussing why the only glass bowl I have with the bike does not fit the fuel assembly. I will not be out to Ted's shop until Thursday (expect a lot of pictures and maybe a video to follow that visit) and I can't wait. After searching the web for 30 plus minutes for a photo, I emailed Hiro and he sent back the following photos for me to reference. Isn't technology great? Hiro lives in Japan and sent me these photos in a matter of hours. As always this blog is indebted to people like Hiro (Palmog), who contribute their knowledge and resources to this blog.

Here are photos for your reference:

Here is a closer look at the sediment bowl:
Another angle:

The glass bowl was replaced with a metal one. It is rumored that metal one were used on later GS and SS models, but I can NOT confirm this. I own a 1967 (later) SS and have a glass sediment bowl.
Once disassembled, it will look like this:
Measurement:

I am happy now that when you Google "Vespa Fuel Assembly" you will be able to see some photos should you ever search for it as I did.

The big reason why I made and maintain this blog is because I wanted and needed information, but no one put it up. So that is what I am doing.

Eric's SS180 is complete

Eric beat me and finished up his restoration (minus the glove box) of his 1966 Vespa VSC. You can see photos and blog entries at Eric's website

Congratulations Eric!