Disassembly: Part 4

Come back late tonight (EST) or tomorrow and I will have the final slide-show (Part 5) posted.
In this slide-show:
(1) Examine the brake cables
(2) Open the gear box and remove the clutch cable
(3) Floor boards are without the floor rails
(4) Examine back and front brake cables

You can also play the slide show at Google Video as a larger image.

Note to readers:If you want/need to see a specific photo or two in this slide-show post a comment and I will upload the photos requested to this blog entry.

Medium Blasting

I've read about the dangers of "sand blasting" and "acid dips"; although I wonder if there are appropriate times to acid dip as long as the necessary precautions were taken to counter act the acid, thoroughly dry, and prime paint the metal immediately. Sand blasting sounds overall too abrasive. I am a 9th grade English teacher and education field we often "steal" or "borrow" ideas from one another -- it's common place. Why recreate the wheel?

As far as I am concerned, the same goes for restoring a scooter; therefore I took my advice and followed in the steps of a local Lambretta restorer, Stuart Werner, who has restored a countless number of bikes. I followed the trail he left and had the SS180 sand blasted with a recycled medium by Seibert's Sand Blasting for $106. Per Christopher Markley's advice I used a spray product called "Zero Rust", which converts & seals rust in the area beneath the gas tank that the sand blaster could not reach. I also prepped the metal with PPG "cleaner" and metal "conditioner" and stored the bike for over one year in my dry basement -- two feet away from a 25 pint dehumidifier. I then took the bike to K & K Autobody and Paint, where it currently resides. K & K have painted more scooters for Stuart than you can count on your fingers and toes. They know how to do it well and take pride in it and the reputation of not giving you guff if you are unhappy. They just make the situation right.

Busted Gear Selector Box

From what we know our Vespa had been abused by teenage boys back in the early 1980s and used as "dirt bike" then stored away after the piston seized and left untouched for 20 years. Take a look at the gear box selector -- see the crack!

Christopher Markley thoroughly cleaned prior to final engine assembly and beneath some goo found this crack, which is where the rod passes through. He suggested either welding or replacing, but after having discussion with expert techie Tom Giordano . . . it was decided replacing would be best for the long run.

Of course this part is specific for GS/SS and in no longer produced, but luckily after several phone calls I found two shops that them in stock new the box. It cost me $90 to buy from Scooter Parts Direct. It's in the mail.

I opted not to TIG weld, which is an option, "because the boss seems to be NOT only cracked, but also worn somewhat oval, so the shaft running through it can wobble. This would probably guarantee oil leaks and sloppy shifting. It might be possible to bore it out and then put in a bronze sleeve, but the work involved would make the repair cost as much or more than the replacement part and wouldn't be a 100% sure-thing," according to my most trusted Christopher Markley. Bottom line: I am not that much of a purist. I want this bike to be as reliable as possible. New is the best choice in this specific situation for me.

Part #59523 GS/SS Gear Selector Box (complete)

Note: A Rally gear selector box will not fit the SS, even if the parts book confuses you, according to a post I put up on Scoot BBS.