Rust Removal

While doing my weekly research on LCUSA (Lambretta Club of America) I came across this product, Quick Glo, that some use to remove rust from spots on parts that can not be soaked in Evaporust; such as a rusty floor board. This product removes the rust and brings back some of the original shine of the original paint.

This would be a great product for myvesparestoration.blogspot.com to use, because his paint job is in good shape and paint is not a necessary investment for that bike's restoration.

Hardware

Pictured above are my new stainless steel / zinc plated lug nuts and split washers. Besides the new are the old. You will notice two things: first the newer nut is smaller than the original and secondly on the newer hardware they are stamped with an ID (not in picture. It's on the opposite side of the nut). The hardcore restorers GRIND this stamp off each piece of hardware, but Lisa, my wife and owner of this SS180 is not THAT concerned and is fine with them being installed as-is.

I chose stainless steel because it is so much easier to keep it looking clean and rust free, but keep in mind many will disagree with me.

You do have another option of course, collect all your externally showing nuts, bolts, washers and clean them up. Then fill them into small coffee tin and send them off to the chrome plater's shop and pay approximately $80-$100 to have your original ones restored to original condition. This is what a true purist would do.

The final option you have is buy a engine and chassis hardware package, if available for your specific scoot, from American Scooter Center in Austin, Texas for $79. I do not know the quality or composition of the metal. What I do know, is most restorers will not need at all of this hardware, but I admit it is a convenient way to go.

I will likely spend $50 and under for all my stainless steel hardware I expect. The lug nuts & washers cost me about $6.00.

If you need zinc plating, black oxide finishing, or metal polishing, I recommend Moto Rapido. I know Tom G. has used Moto Rapido for plating and I am quick to use any shop that Tom or Stuart Werner use -- plus I already know Christopher Markley rocks!

Chrome legshield addition

The Bajaj Chetak & Legend do not come with chrome around the legshield, but you can add after market chrome.


Here's what you'll need:
1) Cuppino chrome trim
2) Heat gun ($10 at Harbor Freight Tools)
3) Dremel tool
4) Thick workman gloves and rag towels
5) Screw driver
6) Painter's tape

Do NOT use pliers! Let me repeat that, under no circumstance are you to use pliers. Pliers will create small "dents" in your legshield trim. The guy who helped me install mine used pliers and I saw the dents in the making and told him to stop. Too late!

STEP ONE:
Prepare the chrome to fit over the black trim around your Bajaj's legshield. Especially around the curves, you may find that the split in the chrome legshield may not be wide enough to fit over your legshield. What you need to do is to use your Dremel tool to sand/grind this split so that it is wide enough. Here's how . . . with a Dry Erase marker mark the areas on your legshield that are too narrow. Now, with your Dremel tool ONLY grind the INNER SIDE of the split (this side is the side that goes inside the scoot and will NOT been seen by anyone). Do NOT grind the outer side (this side is visible from the front of your scooter) as you need as much of a lip as possible so it lies flush with the front of your leghield.

STEP TWO:
Using painter's tape protect the black trim and paint around your scooter's legshield. Wait until the hottest day of the year at the hour when the sun is at its hottest point and cover your scooter or put it in a metal shed along with the chrome legshield. The goal is to get your scoot and chrome legshield trim piping HOT so that the trim is pliable. After your scooter and trim has sat under the hot sun for a few hours ask a friend to come over and help you. Wearing thick gloves and using a rag towel to hold the left piece of chrome trim (note: the right side needs to go on second because it goes on top of the other piece where they meet) heat it with a heat gun until its near to hot to hold. This will take a while. Now align the trim with your legshield and ask yourself which direction (from top to bottom or vice versa) will require the least bending to the most. Work in that direction. You want to start with the least bending possible and you will find that the bigger curves will be less because you have straightened out the smaller ones first (for the most part). Have your friend hold the end of the legshield trim in place as you slowly shape the chrome to fit the curves on your bike. Take your time. As you move up have your friend follow closely behind with pressure.

Now repeat that step with the other piece of chrome. Remember to get it piping hot first. After you have it installed apply more heat to both sides. Working with your friend start from bottom to top on the first piece of chrome installed. Have your friend apply pressure and you are to secure a screw in place. Now your friend will apply pressure and the next screw hole making sure to keep the chrome pushed tight against the bike. Add the second screw. Repeat until done. Repeat on the final piece of legshield.

Note:
1) I do NOT like the pointed screws as they will damage your paint. The vintage bikes used a flat tipped screw to not damage the paint. You might consider investing in these.
2) This process is a big paint in the butt. Please take your time and don't rush it. It is not easy nor fast, but it looks great when done right.

How to polish chrome pieces

In speaking with mentors Christopher Markley and Tom G . . . I have learned how to preserve the beauty of my dinged-up kick start lever and more.

Tom G. says:

Try autosol for chrome.

For Aluminum, I do the sanding approach, using wet/dry
sandpaper (sometimes I use it wet, sometimes I use it
dry).  220 is a good starting point, but some bad
scratches require coarser grades first.  then 320,
then 400, then 600, then 1000, then 1500, and THEN I
rub out with mothers aluminum polish (although I think
autosol is ok too).