Many barn yard finds don't come with a title or maybe you lost your title for your vintage Chetak or other model. That's an easy fix at $80.
Look into International Title Service. They're the most frequently used service for old motorcycles and cars.
In a nutshell what you do is sell your bike to them and they resell it back to you with a clean title.
Easy as 1-2-3.
Alternative ways can be found on Scoot.net's Wiki.
Of course these approaches are for the USA.
Tuesday, 1 January 2008
Need a title?
My Lambretta did not come with a title as many barn yard finds don't or maybe you lost your title -- and now you need one. That's an easy fix at $80.
Look into International Title Service. They're the most frequently used service for old motorcycles and cars.
In a nutshell what you do is sell your bike to them and they resell it back to you with a clean title.
Easy as 1-2-3.
Alternative ways can be found on Scoot.net's Wiki.
Of course these approaches are for the USA.
Lesson Learned from Posting on BBS:
*sigh* ITS and Broadway don't provide actual titles. They charge to provide you with paperwork which enables you to title a vehicle in your home state.
You are still responsible for paying your states' fees for tax, tags, and title above and beyond what you pay any titling company for their "service".
Some states don't accept paperwork from out-of-state titling services, so caveat emptor before spending money with ITS or Broadway. Most state have a process for obtaining a title for a vehicle that doesn't otherwise have one, which is usually cheaper and quicker than using an out-of-state titling service, which is why that FAQ is on scoot.net.
Enjoy,
John M. Stafford
Look into International Title Service. They're the most frequently used service for old motorcycles and cars.
In a nutshell what you do is sell your bike to them and they resell it back to you with a clean title.
Easy as 1-2-3.
Alternative ways can be found on Scoot.net's Wiki.
Of course these approaches are for the USA.
Lesson Learned from Posting on BBS:
*sigh* ITS and Broadway don't provide actual titles. They charge to provide you with paperwork which enables you to title a vehicle in your home state.
You are still responsible for paying your states' fees for tax, tags, and title above and beyond what you pay any titling company for their "service".
Some states don't accept paperwork from out-of-state titling services, so caveat emptor before spending money with ITS or Broadway. Most state have a process for obtaining a title for a vehicle that doesn't otherwise have one, which is usually cheaper and quicker than using an out-of-state titling service, which is why that FAQ is on scoot.net.
Enjoy,
John M. Stafford
Need a title?
We were lucky. Our VSC came with a clean title when we bought it, but many barn yard finds don't or maybe you lost your title. That's an easy fix at $80.
Look into International Title Service. They're the most frequently used service for old motorcycles and cars.
In a nutshell what you do is sell your bike to them and they resell it back to you with a clean title.
Easy as 1-2-3.
Alternative ways can be found on Scoot.net's Wiki.
Of course these approaches are for the USA.
Look into International Title Service. They're the most frequently used service for old motorcycles and cars.
In a nutshell what you do is sell your bike to them and they resell it back to you with a clean title.
Easy as 1-2-3.
Alternative ways can be found on Scoot.net's Wiki.
Of course these approaches are for the USA.
Maisto Vespa SS180
From time to time, when my wife or I see a good deal on models of scoots we buy them for decoration purposes -- plus for our next child we'd time to do a scooter theme for the nursery. This VSC is made by Maisto and I'm gonna keep my eye peeled for it -- sentimental reasons of course. Walmart (evil corporation) is selling a 4 pack of Vespas for $9.00 currently. Two vintage and two modern.
New Year's Day Hangover...
Surprisingly, your humble narrator hasn't got one, but if you do... and even if you don't, I have quite the thing for you.A heaping helping of Richard E. Grant, perhaps best known as Withnail from the cult film Withnail and I. The film is the most touching portrayal of drunken bohemian squalor filled friendship I can think of, alternating between hilarious and sad. You can view it in bite-sized
Rally floor rail kit install instructions
If you already have paint on your scoot and you're installing a new floor rail kit . . . Paul C. emailed me a great suggestion for not screwing up your paint and retrofitting the SS 180 with Rally 200 floor rails.
From Paul C. . . .
pascoli kit are the correct width ,the rally ones are a bit narrower and the rubber has less ribs in them,if youre carefull the rally kit can be fitted without paint damage (if youre carefull, ) cover the paint in gaffa tape and bolt them down to take shape leave them for a while , then use the kit rivits one at a time to replace the bolts, make a tool fron a punch and use a die grinder to make a small circular bowl in end then spend some time polishing the bowl to avoid leaving marks in the end cap rivits .hit the rivits gently 20-30 times to spread the heads, they will go eventuly,but dont wack them , two people make the job much easier, dont bolt them down as a final fit, it looks like you dont have the guts to hit youre new paint with a hammer, you could use skate board sex bolts at a push. good luck
THANX PAUL C.
From Paul C. . . .
pascoli kit are the correct width ,the rally ones are a bit narrower and the rubber has less ribs in them,if youre carefull the rally kit can be fitted without paint damage (if youre carefull, ) cover the paint in gaffa tape and bolt them down to take shape leave them for a while , then use the kit rivits one at a time to replace the bolts, make a tool fron a punch and use a die grinder to make a small circular bowl in end then spend some time polishing the bowl to avoid leaving marks in the end cap rivits .hit the rivits gently 20-30 times to spread the heads, they will go eventuly,but dont wack them , two people make the job much easier, dont bolt them down as a final fit, it looks like you dont have the guts to hit youre new paint with a hammer, you could use skate board sex bolts at a push. good luck
THANX PAUL C.
Bodywork home repairs
BEFORE you do anything go to the following web forum and classroom at:
http://www.autobodystore.com/
Ask about "moving metal" and show them a picture of your problem area. These guys know their stuff and many are ol'schoolers that pratice the "art" of bodywork. They would be the experts I'd ask first. I was turned on to these guys by Christopher Markley of www.motorapido.net, who worked on my wife's 1967 Vespa SS180.
On the Bajaj Yahoo Group today, Mark emailed and said his scoot was dented by a hit-&-run and he wanted suggestions for repairs. His cowl was damaged.
This dent is somewhat creased and that is not a good sign for an ameteur home repair. The more it is creased the harder it will be to repair without needing to repaint.
On the flip side if he can manage to bump the dent back out he may get away without re-painting the cowl, because the paint is in decent shape currently.
For smaller dents without creases I recommend either buying or building your own Ding King from "As Seen on TV". If you visit your local Harbor Freight Tools, Home Depot, and Dollar Tree (for mini hot glue gun and glue) I am sure you could easily make your own dent remover that is even more versatile than the Ding King.
In the photo you can see it's an easy 3-step process using a Ding King.
For this dent this approach would be my first line of defense. ALWAYS use the way of least resistance and work your way up. Hammers are almost always a BAD idea.
With a friend applying hand-pressure to the back of the dent and you working your Ding King try to pull out the dent while your friend pushes you guys may get it to pop back out and look somewhat decent (not perfect). You never know. Research heating and cooling the metal too for expansion and shrinkage. You can heat it with a Harbor Freight Tool's heat gun (cost about $10 on sale) -- just check on how it will affect the paint first. This is a much better approach than a dent puller, which requires you to drill a hole into the metal and then pull it out.
Your next line of defense is hammer & dolly (costs $16 on sale at Harbor Freight Tools).
http://www.autobodystore.com/
Ask about "moving metal" and show them a picture of your problem area. These guys know their stuff and many are ol'schoolers that pratice the "art" of bodywork. They would be the experts I'd ask first. I was turned on to these guys by Christopher Markley of www.motorapido.net, who worked on my wife's 1967 Vespa SS180.
On the Bajaj Yahoo Group today, Mark emailed and said his scoot was dented by a hit-&-run and he wanted suggestions for repairs. His cowl was damaged.
This dent is somewhat creased and that is not a good sign for an ameteur home repair. The more it is creased the harder it will be to repair without needing to repaint.
On the flip side if he can manage to bump the dent back out he may get away without re-painting the cowl, because the paint is in decent shape currently.
For smaller dents without creases I recommend either buying or building your own Ding King from "As Seen on TV". If you visit your local Harbor Freight Tools, Home Depot, and Dollar Tree (for mini hot glue gun and glue) I am sure you could easily make your own dent remover that is even more versatile than the Ding King.
In the photo you can see it's an easy 3-step process using a Ding King.
For this dent this approach would be my first line of defense. ALWAYS use the way of least resistance and work your way up. Hammers are almost always a BAD idea.
With a friend applying hand-pressure to the back of the dent and you working your Ding King try to pull out the dent while your friend pushes you guys may get it to pop back out and look somewhat decent (not perfect). You never know. Research heating and cooling the metal too for expansion and shrinkage. You can heat it with a Harbor Freight Tool's heat gun (cost about $10 on sale) -- just check on how it will affect the paint first. This is a much better approach than a dent puller, which requires you to drill a hole into the metal and then pull it out.
Your next line of defense is hammer & dolly (costs $16 on sale at Harbor Freight Tools).
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