Replace kick start shaft

For the past year or two I have looked for the original kickstart shaft. Mine was welded on my engine. I have the early Li style -- aka the weak one. After hunting and hunting I found one.Mike in Portland, Oregon sold me his. The teeth look good, but I do notice some difference and wonder if that could be a problem or not? For example in the photo below -- my original is on the left. The one I bought looks like it was ground down and is missing the lip. Is that a problem?
Here's another view of the ground down area.

When you look at that area closely, you can see that the lathe left perfect circles in my mine a then with use, I assume that mine was worn down on half of the area.

As you can see the teeth are much better on the replacement kickstart shaft, but when you look very closely at the geared area you can see very subtle differences as if these were not cast from the same mold.
Continuing with the idea of different molds for the casts notice the difference in thickness of the bases pictured below and the overall slopes of the raised areas. Could this mean these are different shafts? The measurements are almost dead even and the later type Li and the GP styles measure totally different as per Stickey's Manual.
Looking at the two side-by-side you can see differences.
I will ask my mentors to make sure I did not buy the wrong kickstart shaft.

Follow-up:

My mentor Mike said:
"The replacement kick start shaft will be fine. Remember to replace the locating pin on the plunger when you install it in the new case. Make sure all is clean and well greased.

The grinding is so the shaft doesn't rub on the clutch basket. This happens when the bushings work their way in to the motor,an incorrectly shimmed clutch or an incorrectly shimmed kickstart shaft. By grinding it, it gives the motor a little bit of room for error when things wear out. Don't over grind because it will weaken it.

As long as the dimensional measurements are the same on the kick shaft you are OK."