No powder coat

I am not gonna powder coat my scooter after all for a couple reasons: (1) my front fender is fiberglass and can not go in the oven (2) my body work is not perfect and will require work pre paint and there is no guarantee the prep will survive the over and finally (3) gas tanks with welds don't do well in the oven.

Finally, getting a correct paint match is not possible (with PPG either). Here's what was said on the LCUSA forum regarding matching powder coat color.

This is what my research turned up:

"Greetings. Ramble mode "on." I've got mixed emotions about poweder coating. That said, I've heard good things about Maas Bros. Though I used a joint in Concord for my stuff. The mixed emotions are based on the fact that while powder coating is tough you simply can't repair it. Plus, you'd be hard-pressed to get the powder coat to match the paint you'll use on the FG fender. "Conventional" paint is more expensive 'cause there's just more work involved.

Of the restorations in our fleet some are powder coated, some are painted with "conventional" paint and some are even rattle can. The body work on Anne's CB160 race bike has held up very well over the last few years - it was rattle canned. WCLW did the paint on my Series II about 10 years ago and, for the most part, it's help up well too. Plus, I can touch it up if I ever get around to it.

If you're going for a 100 point restoration I'd go with conventional paint - as much as the powder coated stuff we have looks like "paint" on close inspection you can tell it's not.

Bottom line - I think you get what you pay for in a finish job. Regardless of what route you go, ask lots of questions about the prep work - that's key to a good finish. Ramble mode "off." Ciao." - Dave Stark

"The problem with powder coating.......... Where do I start? Think of it like chroming. The base metal has to be in really good shape for starters. Then you have the heat aspect of it. You can warp a frame pretty easily by heating and cooling it. Grounding issues, it's tough to ground electrics through the powder. Color matching is harder, the finish isn't as good as paint usually and sand blasting removes base metal. Gas tanks, there is another lever of problems, grit. It's bad for carbs and top ends and gets everywhere when tanks are blasted. Anyways that's the short of it. I've had whole bikes coated before and its just not as good one would think.

I'm not anti anything, it's just some things are better suited for certain applications. Depends on what you want to powdercoat. Rims, forks, small bits are good to coat. Big stuff like frames, pannels, bars and legshields just cause more problems than it's worth." - Mike A.

"Labor rates here seem to run from $15 to $30 an hour (in Portland, OR). The paint and bodywork on my TV cost me 2000 in labor. With parts and supplies the total came closer to 3000. It was all 2-stage Dupont, no
powdercoating. Powdercoating is nice and durable but it does not have the same quality or repairability as a good paint job. Should be fine for stuf like hubs and rims though.

I went with a show quality finish so you get what you pay for. There are many other paint/bodywork folks in town but I've really only worked with my guy. He also did Dave's award-winning Starstream. His specialty is classic custom Harley pan-heads and shovel-heads and would rather keep to that level of finish. Rudy has his own paint &
body person as does Mike. Mike's guy does single stage which is nice for vintage bikes and gives them a more period look." - Ming

For those in the Bay Area that want to Powder Coat, the best price I found for a single color was $300-$400 for a Lambretta at Maas Brothers Powder Coat in Livermore, CA.

Soda blasting and powder coating in East Bay San Francisco

I have been in contact with Aidan, a fellow LCUSA member, and we have been hunting for a local soda blaster. I posted the question on LCUSA's forum and Guillermo of Lambretta Works suggested"Leons Powder Coating" in Oakland, CA. I emailed the Leon Family for the following estimate(s):

Hello Leons Family,

I am restoring a 1962 Italian Lambretta motorscooter. It is all metal. There are three things I'd like to you if (1) you do, (2) what the ball park estimate is, and (3) what type of turn around can I expect?

---------- Projects ----------
1) I need to have two engine (3/4s the size of lawn mower engine) cases soda blaster. I have a friend who may also wish to do one to two of his engines at the same time if we can get a "batch" rate on the job.

2) My scooter will require some very light body work straightening out two to four panels of the body.

3) I would like to have my entire scooter body prepped and painted in two colors. It would look like this:
http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/Jays_tv175_1.jpg

This may serve as a point of reference:
http://lambrettarestoration.blogspot.com/2007/10/vision-for-when-all-is-said-and-done.html

The majority of the parts are quite small.

In coral red (Lechler system colors #8065)
fork, frame, leg-shield, handle bar and headset, floorboard tunnel, wheel hubs, front disc brake backing plate, wheel rims, spare wheel holder, glove box lid, tail-light body, fuel tap hatch, stand, stand mudguard, right-hand rear running board L-bracket air intake (beneath saddle), side-panels, front cowling, horn grille, and front mudguard (fiberglass).

In new white (Lechler system colors #8059):
fuel tank, rear mudguard, cylinder head, air intake manifold (2 pieces), glove box, air box, filter carrier, fuel tank support strap, and battery support strap.

---------- ---------- ---------- ----------

I recognize I provided an abundance of information, but I figured too much is better than two little). I suspect it is possible that you have also done some work on vintage Lambretta scooters as well. Guillermo of Lambretta Works says you guys do great work.

Note: I will post the response. I am very close to being ready to soda blast my engines.

Update: July 31, 2009.

I am beginning to research the prep and paint process of my scoot.

I considered soda blasting the engine cases, but am now looking into vapor/dry ice blasting, because there is no clean up of the cases and it is supposed to be a lot cheaper.

For powder coat I have turned up:

I am in discussions with Leons Powder Coating & Sand Blasting now. $250 quote for major parts and small parts will be extra. I am trying to find out the cap on the entire bike for media blast and powder.

I just spoke with Curtis of Melrose Metal Finishing in East Bay. He quoted me $1200 cash (I asked him to HIGH ball his quote and he did) to medium blast and powder in two colors using the RAL system or paint chip. He said the bike must be delivered with all body work done and ready to be blasted and painted. He has worked on motorcycles before. He does not want to powder coat the gas tank, because the heat and the seams of the tank. He would rather liquid paint this. He really recommended going with wet paint if there is a body work to be done.

A few months back a local club member, Mike C., was telling me how impressed he was with the knowledge of powdering a scooter from a phone call he had with West Coast Powder Coating in South San Francisco. He was quoted $1000 for the whole Lambretta. He didn't end up using him, but he said it sounds like this guy knows what's up.