Lessons learned from complete clutch rebuild

Not surprisingly, I learned that Tom G. was correct about why the needle bearings were binding. This evening I disassembled the clutch 100% (yet again) and with a few taps all of the oiled needle bearings fell out. Furthermore, they all we reinstalled very easily around the circumference of the race. There was no binding.

A couple things to note:

(1) The entire clutch was rebuilt when the engine was done. VSX parts were used with the exception of new needle bearings. I did not receive the original ones back from Christopher M. after the rebuild so I can not compare the sizes, but I do know I just bought 40 new ones from Scooters O and Gene M. successfully installed them in another SS180 that had a similar problem and now there is no grinding noise from the clutch.

(2) A trick for tightening the brass ring I learned from Tom G. is "Put backing plate down on wooden surface. Screw two sheetrock or other screws in place adjacent to the "ears of the backing plate. The screws keep the backing plate from turning. then you use the tool to unscrew the ring. Use just enough force to get the ring to turn. " I took another approach and used three small headless nails and lined them through both plates and turned the top plate so each locked against the nail and there was no movement. I then tightened the brass ring and could lift the clutch assembly off the wood base. Tom's idea may be smarter as it could be less stress on the two plates. I hadn't reread Tom's note and could not get my Sheetrock screws to fit the holes the nails did.

(3) For the brass ring there is no torque guide and it is unlikely to loosen since it is a reverse thread. I kept my hand directly above the socket (less torque) and tightened it down with one jab. Then I stopped. Brass is not that hard.

(4) What I did notice is that the NOS clutch springs (I point to the NOS ones in the slide show) I just purchased are noticeably taller than the VSX ones. Furthermore, they sit in the cups much more snugly. I wonder what difference, if any, that could cause. I did not receive the original ones back so I could not compare the difference in height or width.

The only question now is if the scoring wear on the bottom of the brass ring nut is acceptable or if it suggest that the needle bearings will eventually wear through enough for the brass ring to fail or to cause binding of the heads of the bearings at low RPMs -- hence the sound between neutral and first gear. I want to know this answer ASAP. Follow-up: spoke with Tom and he said that the ring has wear, but not truly scoring. He said their is nothing wrong with the brass ring as-is.

So . . .

At this point, I guess it makes sense to reassemble the bike and test it. If it works, wonderful! If it doesn't it's not hard to replace the clutch and I will need to buy a new one.

Clutch Issue Follow-Up

Had a beer with my mechanic Paul S. last night and the rest of the local scoot club and Paul told me that I am missing the Clutch Spacer Washer (aka thrust washer) -- part #59133. This washer goes on the crank shaft before the clutch goes on. This could affect the the engaging/disengaging of my clutch. I ordered the part for $10 and am having it sent directly to Paul. I really hope this solves the clutch issues for good so we can move on to the electrical in the headset and then finally be done.

Clutch update

Being ordered:

- Clutch puller tool (aka clutch nut tool)
- Brass bits/fittings for clutch rebuild (may not exist in the GS/SS clutches, but do in Rallys and Ps)
- Rear hub spacer

* Note: If you are in a hurry and don't have a local scoot shop where you live and don't want to wait for a clutch compressor tool via mail from a shop or you want to save 80% and make your own . . . a trip to your local hardware store with the following notes and picture will give you a clutch puller for under $5.

As Christopher Markley told me long ago, he suspected a spacer was missing in the engine rebuild because the back plate was rubbing. It rubbed paint onto the brake shoes, which may now be contaminated and may not work. That's to be determined. Luckily, Paul looked at the motor and noticed that there was some play in the rear hub and that the nut was not locked into the cotter pin at the end of the axle. The only thing holding that nut in place was the cotter pin, which would have given soon. The rear wheel would have fallen off while the bike was being ridden -- catastrophic! The job of the spacer is to push the nut up into the cotter pin and have them lock in place. The wheel and the nut spin in the same direction; therefore the cotter pin is the only thing that holds the nut and wheel on. In our case, the nut was tightened down to far to be locked into the cotter pin and spun out as the scoot was ridden.

It is Paul's hope that the spacer will free the wheel up from hitting the back plate. He was surprised to see where the plate was being hit. It is possible, we hope, that the spacer and clutch rebuild will resolve all issues.

I am in the process of ordering the parts above.